Manchester Park to Mill Creek Campground

May 24th - Manchester Park to MacKerricher Park - 43 miles

Today started off sunny and crisp. As I got back to the highway one of the imposing vultures was warming itself on a telephone pole, needless to say it did not reduce my apprehension.

When I reached the highway and turn I was encouraged when I did not feel wind...though it was early so this was not a complete surprise. As I continued along the coast and through forest the weather was still calm. Reaching my "lunch" break two hours into the ride and two thirds the way through my planned day I was excited to have such a wonderful day of riding.

Continuing on to Mendocino I took a couple hours to look through the cute little down and enjoy a delicious...and hot mocha.

Getting back to the road it was STILL calm...I couldn't not believe my luck and it even seemed that there was a tailwind! Of course nothing can be perfect and I got a flat tire in Fort Bragg but even that was entertaining as a man stopped on his bike offering his help. Even after I said I had everything he remained...at first I was confused but soon realized he was ensuring I got back up and running prior to him leaving. It was a kind gesture and I appreciated the sentiment as I'm sure he had better places to be.

Continued on an old logging road along the beach to the campsite where I met a couple of bikers and one hiker.

May 25th - MacKerricher Park to Stanley Hickey Park - 43 miles

It was suppose to rain all day today and as such I was debating if I should cycle or take a rest day since the park was very beautiful and I really didn't see much of it the night before. The biggest incentive for heading out into the rain was that I would have a tailwind and had to climb two big hills today.

I was just getting into the idea of not cycling when the sky had the nerve of clearing up on me!

Now I had no reason not to head out into the party sunny, tailwinded day. So I set off. The first 20 miles were similar as the rest of coastal California, beautiful but slightly more so now that the wind was at my back.

The next 23 miles was not as much fun. The beauty was still there but it was harder for me to recognize as I climbed a 2 mile and then 10 mile hill! I realized why knee warmers were so great as I descended each hill. The first descent was great, a truly fun experience that almost made up for the steep ascent.

The second descent was not as rewarding as about 1 mile away from the summit it began a light rain. Just enough rain to strike terror into a cyclist...the type of rain that brings the oil out of the pavement but not enough to wash it away. Luckily the road wasn't too slick and I finished the 4 miles of descent frozen but in one piece.

Between the two hills I also had the interesting experience of riding under a powerline that had a tree fall on it. There was traffic control to allow us through but I still felt the need to pedal as fast as possible.

I would highly recommend the shop across from the campsite as it has a wide variety of almost everything. For being in such an out of the way place it had everything from organic food to guide books (an impressive selection).

May 26th - Standish Hickey to Burlington Campground - 46 miles

The ride today started out tough as my legs were in no mood to cycle. I would've made it a rest day but there were a few creepy transient guys staying at the hike/bike campsite and all the cyclists were leaving so decided to held to the next campground.

Most of the ride followed a pretty blue river and right before Garberville I entered a pretty valley. Once on Avenue of the Giants redwoods lined the roadway and it was a pleasant ride as I was dwarfed by the trees. Also, it was great to see the different wildflowers adding color to the greens and browns with splashes of purple, yellow, and blue.

Made it to camp early enough and with enough energy (after the first 20 miles it was mostly a gentle downhill or flat) do a walk through parts of the forest.

May 27, 2011 - Burlington Campsite to Trinidad - 23 miles

Had a short day of riding today followed by a bus trip. The first 12 or so miles were still through the Avenue of the Giants with the northern section of this roadway even more impressive than the southern section. Riding through a redwood forest after a night rain is a good way to start off the day. The next 6 miles was still off the beaten path and followed a river for a section.

The last 5 miles confirmed my decision to take a bus from Scotia to Trinidad. After the relaxation of the Avenue of the Giants I was flung onto a freeway section of Highway 101. No serenity in this riding.

Since it was raining in the morning I got a later started then I wanted and as such had three hours to kill in Scotia. Luckily the weather had changed and I sat out of the wind basking in the sunshine that had alluded me for the last two days.

Arrived in Trinidad and headed over to a Warmshowers host who had dinner in the oven. We both were feeling pretty low energy so after a nice chat we headed off to bed.

May 28th - Trinidad to Prairie Creek Park/Elk Prairie campsite - 25 miles

Woke up after a wonderful nights sleep refreshed and dry! Then received a breakfast of homemade scones and fresh french press coffee. It felt quite luxurious after the last eight days of cold instant oatmeal and water. She also suggested stopping at the market in Trinidad for food as it had a good selection...I was glad I did.

Looked like the weather might clear up but was sprinkling as I headed out. Followed the coast for the first few miles still hoping that I might see whales as it is migration season...still no luck. Highway 101 welcomed me back as it started to rain. Spent the last 5 miles riding in the rain but just as I was looking for a campsite it started to pour! Good thing I'm quick on setting up the tent.

After a shower and a look around the visit center the weather seemed to stabilize. I went for a two hour walk among the old growth redwoods. The redwood forests just continue to get more impressive! It actually became sunny when I was on my walk as well. Also, the wild elk were relaxing in the field when I got out of the forest.

Later in the night a group of Canadians from Manitoba rolled in. They were a great group and reminded me of my bike friends back in Minneapolis.

May 29th - Elk Prairie Campsite to Mill Creek Campsite - 31 miles

Woke up to a brisk morning with not a cloud in the sky. Started out through the redwood forest I had walked through yesterday and enjoyed the tranquility.

Once I got back on Highway 101 it was nice for a short while prior to the Crescent City hill starting. When the hill started the highway narrow to allow me to fight for space between the cliff and the cars zooming by. I had heard a lot of things about the Legget Hill but hadn't heard too much about this hill. For me this was much worse a hill! Not only did it keep going but the shoulder appeared and disappeared like a Houdini trick and in many places there were two lanes of traffic. Also, this hill was one of those where it has three or for downhills before it climbs again which is always disheartening.

To end the day I rode the 3 miles down a quite steep road to Mill Creek Campsite. There is nothing to put dread into a cyclists heart as when they chose to descend a giant hill and will have to climb it first thing in the morning. As it is the next campground is 40 miles away so the three mile climb is necessary.

Samuel P Taylor Park to Manchester Park, CA

May 21st - Samuel P Taylor to Bodega Dunes - 43 miles

Started through the redwoods. Had a heck of a day as I had a headwind the whole day. Really am out of shape for wind and rolling hills. The guy I met last night said I could get past Bodega but no way was that happening...I'm going to blame it on the wind.

He also mentioned doing "appreciations" to help get through the worst moods on the bike. When in a funk you start appreciating things (i.e. I appreciate the grass, I appreciate the pavement, etc). Really glad he mentioned it as I used it a lot today! Normally it would sound too corny and I wouldn't do it but when your mind is focusing on the negative it really helps switch your way of thinking and make things bearable and even enjoyable again.

May be taking the next couple of days slowly to keep the attitude positive. We'll see what the wind throws at me.

May 22, 2011 - Bodega Dunes to Woodville campground - 29 miles

Another winding day. Last night met an older tourist (70's) also going north. He's gone 700 miles so far. Encouraging in more than one way. It's nice to see that I can keep doing this into old age.

Today made me realize that the likelihood of me making it all the way to Vancouver was growing slim. The scenery was beautiful and I could understand where heading south would be lovely. It was still a nice day of riding but wore me out as it was quite hilly. I had to laugh when I was super excited for a switchbacking hill in order to get out of the wind! Goes to show that everything is about perception.

Met up with the other cyclist in time for lunch prior to heading the last few miles to the campgrounds. We were staying at separate grounds as there was one another 5 miles up the road.

I've reconciled my disappointment of not finishing the route but it will be here next time for me to finish. Of course I could get so in shape that I make up the lost miles! Still there's something about finishing a hard day of riding that makes me realize I've done something. Luckily so far it's been sunny which always helps (knock on wood).

May 23, 2011 - Woodville campsite to Mancester campsite - 40 miles

Today the wind did not start until 10:00! I was super excited and the views were great as well. Followed the coast for the morning interspersed with forest riding.

Had less then 10 miles left when the wind really started to pick up. At this point there were also a couple of hills. As I crested the second one I was looking down at the ocean and a small plain prior to the hills starting again, very beautiful.

Along the way I saw vultures snacking on an unlucky raccoon. The first time I had seen them up close....truthfully they are quite a large bird to be only a few feet away from!

Also, there was a pretty beach near the campsite that had flowering sand dunes and sand cliffs on a large portion of the dune so getting down to the beach was quite interesting. Watching the ocean here it is in such turmoil. The Pacific I had gotten used to seems so well behaved in comparison. I've been told it's because of the angle of the land and the seabed topography but it's interesting to see the difference.

The interesting thing with this trip is that I miscalculated how much I would be missing my friends and family! When I was overseas there was no way to get home and even phone calls were an exorbitant price. Partly due to this my homesickness/loneliness wasn't that great. On this trip I could call friends/family but I'm staying at campsites with no electricity so I have to conserve my phone time. Since I'm so close and actually am able to talk to them this self-imposed exile is difficult to ignore. It took me completely by surprise since I really didn't have this problem when in New Zealand. Guess it will just make the homecoming even better.

Off again - West Coast USA

May 20th

After resting and running errands in San Francisco it is finally time to get back on the bike and continue on this journey.

I have sent home a good amount of stuff but have also acquired an epic novel and netbook.

May 20, 2011 - San Francisco to Samuel P. Taylor State Park

Today was a day of learning and relearning lessons.

Lessons of the day:

First lesson, AAA does not sell maps to nonmembers...this was mind boggling to me.

Second lesson, waiting 15 minutes for the book store to open to purchase maps is worth it....otherwise a nice 6 mile warm up will ensue (with 3 miles of climbing the hill you just decended.

Third lesson, do not trust the bike route signs they will disappear randomly or have the smallest directional sign available.

Fourth lesson, hiker/biker sites are awesome...for $5 - $10 you get a semi-private camp site located next to other cyclists.

Relearning lessons - slowly but surely

Lesson one, do not believe someone when they say there is only one hill. While technically this may be true if that hill is 4 to 6 miles in length it feels like more.

Lesson two, do not drink beer mid-day. It is a law of physics that a hill will magically appear after such consumption and riding will become near unbearable as you try not to retch. This lesson only applies to touring and/or routes that one is unfamilar with.

Lesson three, the world really is better on a bike.

The last miles had me riding through giant redwoods. Prior to setting up camp among them.

Until next time

Will be heading back to the USA in less than a week and I am not ready!

Looking forward to cycling from San Francisco to Vancouver but nervous about switching back to the right hand side of the road.

Have had a great time here and will miss a lot of things.

Northland tour

Spent a little over two weeks touring in Northlandafter over a month break on the bike. I had the best times and the worst times on this tour. Glad I made the effort to see the far north. This was also the first part of my touring where I had just my lycra shorts on due to the heat...I did not approve but was completely melting. I wish they put the colored part on the outside as well so I can look like the baboon that I feel like.

17 March - Auckland to Helensville (via train to Waitekere)

Looking at the weather I realized that I needed to head out of Auckland early as it was suppose to rain all weekend and I knew my motivation to leave would be nonexistent. The start of tour was bumpy as I didn't fill ANY of my water bottles prior to getting on the train out of the city. Of course I wouldn't know that a suburban end of the line station would be small with limited resources (oh wait I worked on rail lines obviously been away too long).

Anyway spent the first 12 km without water on a hilly section of road. Luckily the town that was on my map was actually a map and not a cluster of houses. So I stopped and had an ice cream and filled my water bottles prior to the next 30 km.

I still had Surly Coffee Bender so I had one to celebrate St. Paddy's day and then went to bed in my concentration camp bunk (three tall and if there was anyone sleeping in the bunk next to me we would have played footsie).

18 March 2011 - Helensville to Wellsford - 56 km

This day was meant to be an epic one. Mostly because after leaving Helensville the only budget accommodation wasn't for another 120 km. Well as it went I only made it 60 km. The first 30 km were hilly but I was still on schedule doing it in just over 2 hours.

Then something clicked to wrong. I would say I bonked but I could still get on my bike and pedal (albeit not for long stretches at a time). Needless to say it took me 5 hours to complete the last 30 km in which I cried, ate, bribed, babied, yelled, encouraged and a million other emotions and states to keep me going. It was one of the most unpleasant experiences I've been through.

When I got to Wellsford I checked myself into a motel (even though my budget told me to freedom camp) where I watched tv and contemplated keeping going on this tour. After reasoning with myself that the next day I would do 60 km and then could do as little as 20 km for the next three days I decided to continue.

19 March - Wellsford to Matakohe - 55 km

This day was pretty much the complete opposite of yesterday. It was hilly and hot but I took my time and had a pleasant ride. On one of my breaks the owner of the mailbox that I had leaned Stella on came and invited me in for tea. It turns out that it was one of three sisters (one who's name was Stella) that are retired and now live together in the country tending there garden in hopes of being self sufficient. After tea they gave me apples and grapes out of their garden.

Then I was stopped on a hill be a man putting firewood into his trailer. He asked where I was going and when I said Cape Reinga he exclaimed that he had told his son that.

Continuing on I went to the Kauri Musuem which was only 400 meters from my campground. Once I got back I had my second dinner for the night and set up camp. Then I was still hungry so I made a "after dinner snack". When in the kitchen an Australian couple and I began talking and it turned out that they were leaving the country the next day so they made me a care package with items they couldn't take back with them. It was super cute and was a perfect end to a great day where I felt like I was pampered all day.

20 March 2011 - Matakohe to Kaihu - 90 km

Met a German/British couple in Dargaville and ended up riding the rest of the day with them. It was odd getting used to riding with someone after I had ridden by myself for so long. They stayed at a campsite and I continued up a hill to a backpackers.

21 March 2011 - Kaihu to Kohu Kohu - 80 km

This was a hilly day as well but long and gradual. These are the kind I've become quite good at. I also rode through the Waipoua forest which was beautiful. As soon as I started into the forest the word 'fresh' was stuck in my head. I love when a feeling of a place is just as, if not more, enchanting than the look. The Waipoua forest has Kauri trees that are thousands of years old and loom over you in a way that reminds you how insignificant you are.

After the forest I met up with the German/British couple (Anna and Liam) and we rode the rest of the way together. It was sprinkling most of the day but as we got into Kohu Kohu off of the ferry it began to steadily rain. I spent the night at a warmshowers host who were planning a year off in Europe. It was a lovely night.

22 March 2011 - Kohu Kohu to Ahipara - 64 km

This was a day of gentle rolling hills. With the help of Wichard (warmshowers host) I cut off 5 km of hills. Arriving in Ahipara the beach was beautiful. This is the beginning of 90 mile beach which during low tide can be driven on all the way to Cape Reinga. I had a lovely time sitting on the beach watching a kite skater.

23 March 2011 - Ahipara to Cape Reinga via bus

As I got closer to Ahipara I had decided due to the weather I wouldn't cycle all the way to Cape Reinga (115 km one way). After taking the bus trip I was quite happy with my decision! The road was hilly and windy with only logging trucks and buses driving it. Not to mention that most of the drive up looked very similar.

We stopped at Cape Reinga and the weather was perfectly calm and cloudy. Both of these were rare but I got them both. You are suppose to be able to see where the Tasmen and Pacific meet in a clash but all we saw was a thin line with slightly different colors on either side. It was still a beautiful spot and can see why the Maori see it as a spiritual place.

After lunch we headed down the 'quicksand stream' and got to boogie board down big sand dunes. Then we continued to drive down 90 mile beach and back to Ahipara

24 March 2011 - Ahipara to Mangonui - 54 km

Normally on a day like today I would have just got back into my tent and stayed where I was but as the weather was changing I didn't want to be stuck in Ahipara for 3 more days. So I headed out against a strong headwind for the full day.

Mangonui is know to have one of the best fish and chip shops in the country so I had to stop and see for myself. They were the best I have had. Of course as I was tired from headwind and now full I didn't think I could make it the 20 km to the hostel I had aimed for. As it was I got to experience the loveliness that is a Pub accommodation. Lets just leave it at there was no lock on the bathroom...fun times.

25 March 2011 - Mangonui to Kahoe - 20 km

The rain that I was hoping to not have to ride in came with a vengeance today. I had determined that I would ride to the hostel I had tried to make it to last night and would stay there if they had space otherwise continue to Kerikeri. Luckily they did have a space and I was once again reunited with Anna and Liam.

26 March 2011 - Kahoe

It was supposed to rain so I didn't ride today. Of course it didn't end up raining but I spent the day tagging along with a British couple to Taupo bay.

27 March 2011 - Kahoe to Pahia - 67 km

Decent ride it rain a little but was so humid I had to take off my rain gear as I was steaming myself to death.

Beautiful to get into Pahia. It's a lovely town even though it is such a tourist destination.

28 and 29th March 2011 - Pahia

Spent a couple of days in the Bay of Islands. Took the ferry over to Russell where I wandered around and enjoyed the quaint town. Didn't get up to much but that is kinda the point of this picturesque locale.

30 March 2011 - Pahia to Whangerei - 68 km

A beautiful day for a ride and mostly a pretty view. Stayed at another warmshowers host. They were a lovely couple planning their first bicycle tour. Both of them were visually impaired to the point where they needed to ride on a tandem with a seeing person. It had never occurred to me that this would be a need and hope in the future to help someone continue with or begin a new love in cycling.

31 March 2011 - Whangerei to Uretiti Beach - 38 km

What a lovely day today was. The weather was absolutely wonderful and the shortish ride allowed me plenty of time to lounge on the beach. I went for a swim, ate fejioas, read a book, and generally enjoyed a lovely day.

To make things even better the camp manager lent me a beach mat and chair to use while I was at the campground. It was great to be able to sit in a chair! The small things that you take for granted when you can't carry them with you.

1 April 2011 - Uretiti Beach to Waipu - 10 km

Spent the morning at the beach and then made my way to Waipu. The warmshowers host here were a lovely family and the daughter, mother and I went to the beach in the afternoon for another swim.

2 April 2011 - Waipu to Wellsford - 55 km then bus to Auckland

This day was a magical way to end the tour. Felt like I was in paradise as I biked in the sun past beautiful and mostly empty beaches. The trees growing right up to the beach which allowed for some shade while enjoying the water.

Whirlwind month

Feburary was a crazy busy month had my parents come out for a visit. The beginning of March didn't see a slow down as I went for a road trip with Mikenna.

Had an epic 17 days of traveling with the parents. Got back into Wellington on 10 Feb and the parents flew in on 11 Feb. I dropped Stella off with Gary on my way to the airport. Then headed up to Hawkes bay to see Jill and Bas.

James and Ann on quick stop on way north

Margot, Me, Bryan, Bas and Jill after dinner

In 17 days I ended up retracing a good portion of my last 3 months of touring. It was an interesting trip as this was the first time I had traveled with my parents for more than four days since I was a teenager. It was a fun change to really get to appreciate my parents for themselves. Another great thing was I cooked for them for probably the second time in my life.

I played the part of tour guide and didn't realize how excited I was to show them my favorite places until I started driving. Yes, I was driving. Anyone that knows my father knows that he ALWAYS drives. Mostly because if you have ever had him as a passenger you don't want to repeat the experience. He is a nervous rider at best. Early on we had an agreement that I would drive considering left side driving is a little disconcerting.

This went much better than I expected it to. We would joke about how he had called his "friends" when ever construction work was around (causing us to slow to a snail pace). Probably the best statement from him though was when a truck was in front of us and he got more nervous. When I told him I thought he would be happy since I would have to slow down he replied "Truck go boom" only then did I realize it was a gas tanker. In return he gave me crap about not being patient as the first time I went on a rant we happened to be passing Patience Bay Road...needless to say I needed to "travel" this road often.

As always me and my dad made my mother wonder why she ever travels with us...particularly when we would be on a walking track and need to get on our imaginary horse to finish a climb. At one point we did almost buy coconuts so we could do a full impression of Monty Python but I think my mom would have refused to be seen with us. Hehehehehe

And now for the fun photos:

Dad and I thinking the gondola is going to crash in Queenstown

Dad and I at Milford Sound

Mom and I along Milford Sound Road

Anyway I think they had a wonderful time and they also got to meet Jill and Bas which they had looked forward to.

Falling behind

Sometimes I realize how far behind on documenting my trip I am and feel like I'm back at work ;). Hope to do a lot of writing when I'm in Christchurch at the end of this week for a well deserved relaxation session.