Spent all but the last 5 km in a slow steady climb. Since this was the beginning of me touring again it was a demoralizing day. Seeing the computer almost always below 18 km/hr makes a person seem very unfit.
Most of the ride was green or brown fields. Than out of nowhere a whole field of purple...absolutely beautiful, happy purple. These tiny moments that you don't even notice in the car is why cycling is awesome. It's all of these little things that group into one amazing trip.
Random purple fieldI set up camp behind a building as I was confused by the two signs, one stating that there was no camping and the other that said camping was allowed. The next day as I bike over the bridge (300 m from my campsite) I come across the real campsite...whoopsie...but truthfully my legs were not able to go up the giant hill on the other side of the river so I only feel slightly bad.
8 December 2010 - Rakaia Gorge to Geraldine - 84 km at 18.6 km/hr
This trip was mostly uneventful with a stop at a cafe and just prior to take a picture of the Moa statute.
Moa statutes
Moa statutesThough as I stopped at the grocery store it was 'Santa days' and was swarming with people dressed in costumes and giving away free samples. A little much for a tired cyclist who just wanted to buy some food to prepare.
Than meet a couple from Quebec who I would end up following by a day for the whole way to Queenstown. Also, a fellow from Australia who travelled much in the same way as I did. Stopping at the top of hills, to take pictures, walking up hills if necessary and hitching a ride through boring sections. We both thought it was great to meet a fellow tourist who wasn't 'hardcore' but was just cycling to prove to ourselves we could do it and have fun. Unfortunately he was heading the opposite way as me so we didn't cycle together.
9 December 2010 - Geraldine to Fairlie - 46 km at 16.9 km/hr
Looking at the elevation this day looked relatively easy. I was wrong! Luckily when I ran into the Quebec couple next they also thought it was way harder than expected. Though truthfully the hardest days seem to be the flatter days because I don't have the mindset if something doesn't go as planned.
Fairlie is a cute little town and I'm glad that I stopped especially since the campsite had free internet!
First view of the mountains on way to Lake Tekapo
Stella taking a break at top of Burkes Pass
After Burkes Pass there were lupins on either side of the road which contrasted from the brown of the tuscosk and the snowcapped mountains looming in the back. It was amazing to have the hair blowing through my hair with a light honey floral scent in the air. Just beautiful...and I didn't take a photo cause I wanted to keep it all to myself!
11 December 2010 Lake Tekapo to Glentanner - 80 km at 15.1 km/hr
There is a canal road from Lake Tekapo to almost Pukaki. This is 46 km of flat roadway following a stunningly blue canal and no traffic as it is a private road.
Ignoring all of my transportation engineering experience when the first section of roadway (14 km) had a "road closed ahead" sign I paid it no heed and continued forward. Well sure enough about 10 km into there was a barrier closing the road. WOW this was unexpected...hmm...maybe they actually mean what the sign says. While I started to turn around and then I saw cars on the highway maybe 2 or 3 km away....well I'm not saying I went around the barrier but I had a pleasant ride.
Canal Road closed 10 km in...hmm guess I'll turn around
After crossing the highway I had the pleasure of cycling with a strong northwestern crosswind. I was very glad to be on a less traveled road as I was in the middle of the lane in order to allow for navigation when gusts occurred. The canal road was a beautiful ride allowing me to ride next to Lake Pukaki for another 20 km than if I'd taken the highway. Plus it passes a salmon farm...where I bought 250 grams of smoked salmon which was promptly devoured.
Turning onto the road to Mt Cook I had 30 km to go to Glentanner. Luckily the first 15 km were angled so that I didn't have the northwestern as a full headwind. Unfortunatly the next 15 km I had a strong headwind with the last 5 km being the worse. I was biking at 7 km/hr on a mostly flat piece of road. Getting to the campsite was much appreciated! Plus I was rewarded with the clouds that had been around Mt. Cook all day retreating long enough for me to get a picture.
Mt. Cook viewed from Glentanner
12 December 2010 - Glentanner to Mt Cook - 44 km at 20.2 km/hr (16.4 km/hr first 22 km no gear)
Being 22 km from the base of Mt. Cook I had to go the rest of the way to the base of the mountain. So dispite the weather being really cloudy and riding fullon into a northwestern wind I set out to the base. Most of the way there I was thinking "why are you cycling when you can't see anything"...and the rest of the time "if the wind changes on the way back I'm so going to be pissed".
As I got closer to the moutains and they loom over you I knew even with the limited view of Mt. Cook that it was worth the trip out there. Plus I couldn't stand it if I'd been that close and not made the effort.
Stella taking a rest at Mt Cook village
13 December - Glentanner to Omarama - 73 km at 20.8 km/hr
One more day of racing the rain. Had the last 15 minutes in a light rain but nothing too bad. Nice day of riding. Everyday is better on a bike.
14 December - Omarama to Wanaka - 114 km at 17.4 km/hr
This ride was quite long. I was told by the Aussie that the hostel had been closed in Tarras due to the owner being a peeping tom so I had to extend the length by 25 km. From Omarama over Lindis Pass I had a nice tailwind.
Looking south up Lindis Pass
Getting into Tarras I had bribed myself with a real lunch and a coffee. Once I left Tarras I had 2 km prior to turning into a vicious headwind. Also, I didn't have the pleasure of having the elevation on this side route and didn't know it continued to slowly ascend most of the way to Wanaka.
I really need this heart in Tarras
Salad? I don't even know the last one I had
The last 10 km into Wanaka were quite evil! To begin you dip down to a one-lane truss bridge and than you climb out of the river valley only to have to go up another big hill. After these hills you would think that it's all downhill from there...but no a minor ascent before what seems like a completely flat never ending road. Once in Wanaka the lake is beautiful and well worth the effort and a few days stay.
The Wanaka cinema is known as a "must do" event when staying here. I would completely agree as it is not just watching a film but an experience. First, when you arrive it appears that you are just in a cafe until you notice the doors to the theater. The theater itself has couches and lounge chairs to sit in while watching the movie. The sincher though is the warm cookies that are available for purchase at intermission! Yes, it is great. You can also order food from the cafe and they will bring it in for you to snack on while watching.
It was also great because it just so happened that I got to watch a locals (Tim Pierce) work which just made the whole experience even more homey.
I also took time during my visit for a skydive which was amazing!
Wanaka at dusk
Looking at the elevation this day looked relatively easy. I was wrong! Luckily when I ran into the Quebec couple next they also thought it was way harder than expected. Though truthfully the hardest days seem to be the flatter days because I don't have the mindset if something doesn't go as planned.
Fairlie is a cute little town and I'm glad that I stopped especially since the campsite had free internet!
10 December 2010 - Fairlie to Lake Tekapo - 44 km at 16.4 km/hr
This was a beautiful day of riding. Sunny and as soon as you get to see the mountains it was a pleasant ride.
This was a beautiful day of riding. Sunny and as soon as you get to see the mountains it was a pleasant ride.
First view of the mountains on way to Lake Tekapo
Stella taking a break at top of Burkes Pass11 December 2010 Lake Tekapo to Glentanner - 80 km at 15.1 km/hr
There is a canal road from Lake Tekapo to almost Pukaki. This is 46 km of flat roadway following a stunningly blue canal and no traffic as it is a private road.
Ignoring all of my transportation engineering experience when the first section of roadway (14 km) had a "road closed ahead" sign I paid it no heed and continued forward. Well sure enough about 10 km into there was a barrier closing the road. WOW this was unexpected...hmm...maybe they actually mean what the sign says. While I started to turn around and then I saw cars on the highway maybe 2 or 3 km away....well I'm not saying I went around the barrier but I had a pleasant ride.
Canal Road closed 10 km in...hmm guess I'll turn around After crossing the highway I had the pleasure of cycling with a strong northwestern crosswind. I was very glad to be on a less traveled road as I was in the middle of the lane in order to allow for navigation when gusts occurred. The canal road was a beautiful ride allowing me to ride next to Lake Pukaki for another 20 km than if I'd taken the highway. Plus it passes a salmon farm...where I bought 250 grams of smoked salmon which was promptly devoured.
Turning onto the road to Mt Cook I had 30 km to go to Glentanner. Luckily the first 15 km were angled so that I didn't have the northwestern as a full headwind. Unfortunatly the next 15 km I had a strong headwind with the last 5 km being the worse. I was biking at 7 km/hr on a mostly flat piece of road. Getting to the campsite was much appreciated! Plus I was rewarded with the clouds that had been around Mt. Cook all day retreating long enough for me to get a picture.
Mt. Cook viewed from Glentanner12 December 2010 - Glentanner to Mt Cook - 44 km at 20.2 km/hr (16.4 km/hr first 22 km no gear)
Being 22 km from the base of Mt. Cook I had to go the rest of the way to the base of the mountain. So dispite the weather being really cloudy and riding fullon into a northwestern wind I set out to the base. Most of the way there I was thinking "why are you cycling when you can't see anything"...and the rest of the time "if the wind changes on the way back I'm so going to be pissed".
As I got closer to the moutains and they loom over you I knew even with the limited view of Mt. Cook that it was worth the trip out there. Plus I couldn't stand it if I'd been that close and not made the effort.
Stella taking a rest at Mt Cook village 13 December - Glentanner to Omarama - 73 km at 20.8 km/hr
One more day of racing the rain. Had the last 15 minutes in a light rain but nothing too bad. Nice day of riding. Everyday is better on a bike.
14 December - Omarama to Wanaka - 114 km at 17.4 km/hr
This ride was quite long. I was told by the Aussie that the hostel had been closed in Tarras due to the owner being a peeping tom so I had to extend the length by 25 km. From Omarama over Lindis Pass I had a nice tailwind.
Looking south up Lindis Pass
I really need this heart in Tarras
Salad? I don't even know the last one I hadThe Wanaka cinema is known as a "must do" event when staying here. I would completely agree as it is not just watching a film but an experience. First, when you arrive it appears that you are just in a cafe until you notice the doors to the theater. The theater itself has couches and lounge chairs to sit in while watching the movie. The sincher though is the warm cookies that are available for purchase at intermission! Yes, it is great. You can also order food from the cafe and they will bring it in for you to snack on while watching.
It was also great because it just so happened that I got to watch a locals (Tim Pierce) work which just made the whole experience even more homey.
I also took time during my visit for a skydive which was amazing!
Wanaka at dusk
Me getting dressed for my skydive - 12,000 m
19 December - Wanaka to Arrowtown- 56 km at 15.3 km/hrDecided last minute to go over the Crown Range and up to 1080 meters instead of the easy route. The words "highest point on a highway" forced my hand. I could not be this close and not go over. From Wanaka the ride is actually quite pleasant with only the last couple of km to the top being steep. Of course there was also the hill out of Wanaka and Cardrona which both weren't that long but steep and annoying!
Stopped at the Cardrona Hotel for a coffee and muffin. It is adorable plus I had the added bonus of seeing a photo shoot in the garden out back. I've never got to hear the instructions that the models receive in real life until this point. Let me tell you it is quite funny.
Cardrona Hotel
Arriving at the top of the range the clouds that had been chasing me all morning caught up and it started to rain. Nothing like going on a steep downhill in the rain to perk up all your senses. Luckily it wasn't a hard rain and it moved quite quickly. Allowing me to soon see the valley below.
Clouds clearing as coming down the Crown Range
Finished the day at the Arrowtown Brewery. Not too shabby a day!
20 December - Arrowtown to Queenstown- 26 km at 13.4 km/hr
Took Malaghans Road from Arrowtown into Queenstown. It was a great ride with a beautiful view of mountains.
The best section was going over the Shotover river. As I'm heading down a hill on a potholed patch of road (one of the few I've run into) I make it onto the bridge and finally don't have to concentrate on riding. Looking to the left is an amazing gorge with a beautiful river running through it. It's one of the moments that I know cycling is the way to see this country.
In Queenstown I hire a mountain bike and head out to Seven Mile Park. Still not a mountain biker but it's fun! More pratice necessary.
Stopped at the Cardrona Hotel for a coffee and muffin. It is adorable plus I had the added bonus of seeing a photo shoot in the garden out back. I've never got to hear the instructions that the models receive in real life until this point. Let me tell you it is quite funny.
Cardrona HotelArriving at the top of the range the clouds that had been chasing me all morning caught up and it started to rain. Nothing like going on a steep downhill in the rain to perk up all your senses. Luckily it wasn't a hard rain and it moved quite quickly. Allowing me to soon see the valley below.
Clouds clearing as coming down the Crown RangeFinished the day at the Arrowtown Brewery. Not too shabby a day!
20 December - Arrowtown to Queenstown- 26 km at 13.4 km/hr
Took Malaghans Road from Arrowtown into Queenstown. It was a great ride with a beautiful view of mountains.
The best section was going over the Shotover river. As I'm heading down a hill on a potholed patch of road (one of the few I've run into) I make it onto the bridge and finally don't have to concentrate on riding. Looking to the left is an amazing gorge with a beautiful river running through it. It's one of the moments that I know cycling is the way to see this country.
In Queenstown I hire a mountain bike and head out to Seven Mile Park. Still not a mountain biker but it's fun! More pratice necessary.
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