Dien Bien Phu to Moung Khoua

3 February 2012 – Dien Bien Phu to Muong Mai – 67 km

Started in the dark as I woke up early and thought I might as well get to the ride as I knew there was going to be 25 km of climbing. The first 20 kms were pretty flat but it started to rain shortly into the ride so I stopped and put on my rain cape. Needless to say the rain didn't stay so I had to take the cape back off. This would happen again before I realized it wasn't going to pour and just road the while that it was raining.

The climb was long and of course foggy. Slowly upwards I trudged. Finally I got to the Vietnam border and got stamped out and then started on the way to the Laos border. I believed there was shops halfway there (3 km) so I skipped the cafe at this side. That was a mistake as the shops were closed in between and when I got to the Laos side there cafe was also closed.

Luckily the border was open so I filled out my forms gave them my money and got back on the bike. The first 3 km were terrifying as the fog was thick, there was no guard rail, and the road was slick and greasy. Luckily that didn't last long and coming out of the fog there was a couple of rough km but then got to the section where the class 5 has been put down. After this it was 15 km of downhill, still fairly heavy on the brake but mostly smooth. I was glad it hadn't rained here.

Another 12 km and I found myself in a town which I believe to be Muong Mai. Though at the time I didn't care as I was starving. I hadn't had a proper breakfast because I left so early nothing was open and then the last food stall came sooner then expected. It was great to get to the restaurant and have the owner mime “You want food?” and then just bring out a bunch of food. So much so that I actually didn't finish all of it.

Then trekked up the hill to follow the sign for the guesthouse. It was worth it as the guesthouse is very cute. Later I found 3 more and a hotel but I'm glad I chose mine. I was surprised to see it had a shower (cold), had expected a bowl shower.

Coming into Laos is not as dramatic as Cambodia to Vietnam but it is different. Now back to the basics of finding out how to get myself fed and housed. So far other than the distance between restaurants it's been pretty straight forward.

Wandered through the village and looked at the thatched buildings and dirt roads. It has a very different feel from Vietnam and the hustle. No horns honked, few cars, really delightful.

We'll see what tomorrow brings.

04 February 2012 – Muang Khoua – 40 km

Today started muddy. I had to grip the railing of the suspension bridge to push Mabel and I off the ramp and onto the bridge. Thankfully a guy came and gave me a little push at the end to get me up. Then cycled some rough roads for the next 20 km or so. Once again climbed for the morning while enjoying beautiful views of the valley below.

Then as I got to the downhill section I was delighted to find that the class 5 had been poured and as I went was finishing being compacted. A smooth ride for the next 5 km prior to an even more surprising brand new asphalt! 5 more km of that and on to a gentle downhill with a decent roadway.

Got to ford a stream today. First of the trip. Then shortly after I came upon the river that needed a ferry and as such Muang Khoua. This was a surprise because I thought I had another 15 km to go. As I was looking for a guesthouse I saw some white people and asked them if they knew about the ferry.

Then as I went to the second guesthouse I heard my name. There was John. I had thought he would be long gone by now but turns out he did a few day trek and decided to have a rest day. Sounds like he has been putting in quite the km which makes me very glad that I decided to take my own lumbering way!

Son La to Dien Bien Phu

31 January 2012 – Tong Lenh – 30 km

Technically I was suppose to have a long day today but the hill was at the end of the day and I didn't know how my legs would deal with it so I slept in and stopped at a village. I was suppose to stop at Thuan Chau but accidentally stopped at the little village prior to it.

One of my favorite moments of today was when brothers on a bike stopped at the top of a hill to wave at me and the younger one reached out and touched my hand. He then proceeded to shriek in excitement. I think he said something like this “Oh my I touched the falang!!! You didn't do it brother...I did though!”

The guesthouse was not the nicest but the family that owned it once again made me feel welcome. They also took a turn on Mabel. Coming back with one of the ladies sitting on the rack and the other pedaling. I don't think they figured out that they could change gears. The guesthouse in Thuan Chau looked like it would be nicer than mine but I like stopping in villages that don't get many tourists.

As they were taking Mabel for a spin the rest of the family showed me how they eat the sour/bitter fruit I had tried a couple of days ago. They split it in two and take the pit out prior to wrapping it in cabbage with cilantro and dipping it in a sauce of sugar, garlic, fish sauce and probably some other stuff. It still has the sour at the end but the mixture is really pleasant.

Went and got snacks for dinner including a sweet baguette! Didn't realize how much I had missed bread until I took a bite of the freshly baked goodness. Have been drinking Milo as I can't find chocolate anywhere.

I also figured out why the hats up here are shaped the way they are. They have a wider bottom and then a tall section of hat. As I saw the ladies with helmets 3 inches above their heads it occurred to me that the hats allow for the traditional buns on the top of their heads to be covered as well as their ears. 

 

01 February 2012 – Tuan Giao – 53 km

Today was about fifty fifty of climbing and downhill. The climb was tough partly because there was a small TV antenna a couple of km from the top of the hill which has a large TV antenna (milemarker 364.4). Since I hoped it was the top when I saw the first antenna the last couple of km dragged by.

The downhill was a dream! After 5 km the fog finally cleared and I could see the valley as I descended. For some reason every long decent makes me in awe of myself. I just can't believe that I can cycle up a mountain and get to come down it! I suppose at some point this won't be such a surprise but right now I still feel like it is someone else that cycles as I can't do that.

I've become really good at getting into town just as school is getting out for lunch (or the day?). So I pass by all the children on their way home and wave and say Hello as they go the opposite way on their own bikes.

Getting into town I scouted out the guesthouse situation. I only saw one signed from the main road so I decided to go to that one first and then see if there were others. It turned out that the guesthouse was very cute and had a little cafe attached. The owner must get a lot of cycle tourists as she had the miming job down to a T and even showed me the menu before I went up to my room to say they had food. Yes, a menu which means I will not have to have Pho for dinner tonight!!!

Also, it has the softest towels! I was in heaven when I touched them as most aren't that soft.

One thing that isn't as great with the mountains is that the dogs chase you here. I don't think they are used to people on bikes because the hills are so steep so they think I'm easy prey. Luckily so far a good yell has kept them at bay.

The town is a great place to see people in their colorful garb and we take turns staring! It's nice to be able to stare and not feel self conscious as everyone is staring at me as well. Of course I don't have the guts to take photos of them unlike some of the younger generation took of me today.

Found out that the owner of the guesthouse kid lives in Oklahoma.   

02 February 2012 - Dien Bien Phu - 80 km

Today the first 30 km or so were beautiful following a river and having bright green rice paddies.  There were plenty of little villages to ride through and it was pleasant.

Then a climb started and once again climbed into the fog.  Not a bad climb and once on the other side the sun started to burn through the fog and it came out.  It actually became quite a hot day.

Saw awesome bridges were the caissons were weaved bamboo filled with rocks.  Of course the two I saw was when I was going over 40 km/hr without pedaling...which doesn't happen often so I didn't stop for a photo. 

Right before town there was an intersection and I wasn't sure which way to go.  So I took a left and saw a guy so asked him if it was the way.  He pointed the opposite way and as I went he then followed me and asked repeatedly for money and followed creepily close.  I am very happy to be leaving Vietnam tomorrow!  I'm so sick of everyone only helping you if they think they will get something out of it.

Got into town and felt like I could still go on but wanted to hit up the internet and wasn't sure if the border town actually had any guesthouses.  

Had some depressing personal news (nothing major) but left me feeling drained.

Wandered around town looking for places to change dong to kip but didn't find any and since I was feeling a little blue headed back to the hotel.  Of course prior to that I saw one of the giant monuments for the battle against the french.