Son La to Dien Bien Phu

31 January 2012 – Tong Lenh – 30 km

Technically I was suppose to have a long day today but the hill was at the end of the day and I didn't know how my legs would deal with it so I slept in and stopped at a village. I was suppose to stop at Thuan Chau but accidentally stopped at the little village prior to it.

One of my favorite moments of today was when brothers on a bike stopped at the top of a hill to wave at me and the younger one reached out and touched my hand. He then proceeded to shriek in excitement. I think he said something like this “Oh my I touched the falang!!! You didn't do it brother...I did though!”

The guesthouse was not the nicest but the family that owned it once again made me feel welcome. They also took a turn on Mabel. Coming back with one of the ladies sitting on the rack and the other pedaling. I don't think they figured out that they could change gears. The guesthouse in Thuan Chau looked like it would be nicer than mine but I like stopping in villages that don't get many tourists.

As they were taking Mabel for a spin the rest of the family showed me how they eat the sour/bitter fruit I had tried a couple of days ago. They split it in two and take the pit out prior to wrapping it in cabbage with cilantro and dipping it in a sauce of sugar, garlic, fish sauce and probably some other stuff. It still has the sour at the end but the mixture is really pleasant.

Went and got snacks for dinner including a sweet baguette! Didn't realize how much I had missed bread until I took a bite of the freshly baked goodness. Have been drinking Milo as I can't find chocolate anywhere.

I also figured out why the hats up here are shaped the way they are. They have a wider bottom and then a tall section of hat. As I saw the ladies with helmets 3 inches above their heads it occurred to me that the hats allow for the traditional buns on the top of their heads to be covered as well as their ears. 

 

01 February 2012 – Tuan Giao – 53 km

Today was about fifty fifty of climbing and downhill. The climb was tough partly because there was a small TV antenna a couple of km from the top of the hill which has a large TV antenna (milemarker 364.4). Since I hoped it was the top when I saw the first antenna the last couple of km dragged by.

The downhill was a dream! After 5 km the fog finally cleared and I could see the valley as I descended. For some reason every long decent makes me in awe of myself. I just can't believe that I can cycle up a mountain and get to come down it! I suppose at some point this won't be such a surprise but right now I still feel like it is someone else that cycles as I can't do that.

I've become really good at getting into town just as school is getting out for lunch (or the day?). So I pass by all the children on their way home and wave and say Hello as they go the opposite way on their own bikes.

Getting into town I scouted out the guesthouse situation. I only saw one signed from the main road so I decided to go to that one first and then see if there were others. It turned out that the guesthouse was very cute and had a little cafe attached. The owner must get a lot of cycle tourists as she had the miming job down to a T and even showed me the menu before I went up to my room to say they had food. Yes, a menu which means I will not have to have Pho for dinner tonight!!!

Also, it has the softest towels! I was in heaven when I touched them as most aren't that soft.

One thing that isn't as great with the mountains is that the dogs chase you here. I don't think they are used to people on bikes because the hills are so steep so they think I'm easy prey. Luckily so far a good yell has kept them at bay.

The town is a great place to see people in their colorful garb and we take turns staring! It's nice to be able to stare and not feel self conscious as everyone is staring at me as well. Of course I don't have the guts to take photos of them unlike some of the younger generation took of me today.

Found out that the owner of the guesthouse kid lives in Oklahoma.   

02 February 2012 - Dien Bien Phu - 80 km

Today the first 30 km or so were beautiful following a river and having bright green rice paddies.  There were plenty of little villages to ride through and it was pleasant.

Then a climb started and once again climbed into the fog.  Not a bad climb and once on the other side the sun started to burn through the fog and it came out.  It actually became quite a hot day.

Saw awesome bridges were the caissons were weaved bamboo filled with rocks.  Of course the two I saw was when I was going over 40 km/hr without pedaling...which doesn't happen often so I didn't stop for a photo. 

Right before town there was an intersection and I wasn't sure which way to go.  So I took a left and saw a guy so asked him if it was the way.  He pointed the opposite way and as I went he then followed me and asked repeatedly for money and followed creepily close.  I am very happy to be leaving Vietnam tomorrow!  I'm so sick of everyone only helping you if they think they will get something out of it.

Got into town and felt like I could still go on but wanted to hit up the internet and wasn't sure if the border town actually had any guesthouses.  

Had some depressing personal news (nothing major) but left me feeling drained.

Wandered around town looking for places to change dong to kip but didn't find any and since I was feeling a little blue headed back to the hotel.  Of course prior to that I saw one of the giant monuments for the battle against the french.

Mai Chau to Son La

28 January 2012 – Mai Chau to Moc Chau – 60 km

The morning started good. In Mai Chau it was cloudy but pleasant. This didn't last long as I started the ascent fog settled in. It was so thick that I actually thought about taking off my glasses as I might have been able to see better!

Just as I was starting to get disheartened from climbing into a void for 2.5 hours. I turned a corner and there, much to my surprise, was a beautiful, clear, sunny sky! The rest of the climb was long but the scenery was outstanding.  Being able to look back at where I had been really helps keep the mind positive.  It was amazing to see the sun as it had been over 2 weeks since I'd had a sunny day.

Beginning of ride

End of ride...Hello Sun

more sunny scenes

After entering the sunshine the route undulated through the mountains. With a couple of exceptional downhill sections. On one such segment I past an older gentleman on a motorbike and he motioned for me to stop but I was going to enjoy my well deserved downhill and bolted past him. I stopped to refill my water and he caught up with me speaking in Vietnamese. But from his actions I gathered he was impressed. He may have said something lewd as he smacked my legs but I think he was saying I must be strong...judging from his facial expression. Then he kissed my hand farewell and best of luck (assuming). It was pretty awesome.

Got into town a lot sooner then I thought as I didn't think there was going to be as much downhill as there was.

Wandered around town. Finding food actually was difficult as I think everything was still closed for Tet. After three tries I finally found a place that was open and would serve me.

Went to the market to grab some fruit and the lady had a fruit I had never seen. I pointed and asked about it and she a little too eagerly agreed to let me try one. I complied as I like trying new things and was encountered with a sour bitter fruit. Reminded me of chokecherries without the pleasant flavor first. We laughed as I decided not to purchase those fruit and instead went for some oranges.

29 January 2012 – Moc Chau to Yen Chau – 60 km

Started the day with a gentle climb out of town. Then a blissful day of downhill. The clear skies of yesterday did not stay but it was a pleasant cloudy day with great views. A nice day of minimal effort while enjoying pedalling through small villages. I made it to my destination before noon and had to decide if I wanted to continue.

I had a couple of bike things to do plus my legs were quite sore from the days prior so I decided to stop and enjoy a short day.

Once again had trouble finding lunch. Luckily I went to where I knew I would find food...the market. Had yet another bowl of pho. Then for dessert had deep fried goodness with sweet filling. I really needed something other than just pho so it was a great find.

Bamboo bridge

the road

Then took a nap and fixed up Mabel before heading to hopefully find something to eat. There happened to be a little place near by so I went in hoping to mime for food. Ended up having a great dinner tonight. Probably the best I have had while just miming (though one of the top in Vietnam as well). I ordered rice and beef but was shown pork which was fine. Out came the sliced pork and rice and then other dishes kept coming. My favorite was tofu with tomatoes. Also had soup and steamed kohlrabi. The owner even put on an english language TV station to make me feel welcome. It was really sweet.

30 January 2012 - Son La - 62 km

Today was another day of riding through villages.  Actually a lot more villages today with colorful native clothes.  My favorite of today was an older women with a bright green sweater vest and traditional head garment (pink, red and black) with traditional pants that moved to the side of the road as I passed and waved to me.  She had such a welcoming smile!

Half hearted shot of mountains

How far have I gone this time?...oh thanks

Sneaking a photo of the ox pulled plow

Got into town and found a decent looking and priced hotel.  Only after I checked in did I notice the signs for massage and the massage parlor next door....but the room is nicer than the other hotels and cheaper so if it is a brothel it's a nice one.  

Went to find food and for the first time in a while I achieved it no problem.  After I received my dish the family that owned the restaurant sat down for their lunch.  The owner brought me over one of his deep fried rice/fish/pea things which I ate happily.  After I could slow down eating enough to look around I saw them motion for me to come over to their table.  I now know that anytime you are offered food by Vietnamese you will get drunk.  I don't understand the etiquette but four or five shots in or a very strong alcohol I was trying to shove enough food in to counter it.  

Needless to say I had many more of the deep fried things along with fried pork fat, pork/beef bits? (maybe nose?), delicious sour fish soup, beef with vegetables and only a little of my chicken with mushrooms.  It was a fun lunch and I was glad to get to try so many different things!  

Had some more climbing to do today but wasn't too bad.  My legs are beginning to feel it though so I have decided to cut tomorrows ride in half.  There is a big climb late in the day and I just don't think my legs will make it.  This not only means a short day for me but more importantly a sleep in!