Men or Western Men

Okay for the last month or so I have been inflicted with the most horrible types of men...or should I say western men.

Laos was the first place I met someone who went and propositioned a prostitute while hanging out. I actually had quite liberal views on prostitution but after this I think they have changed radically.  Here is a situation where someone is using their strong currency (AUD) to exploit a local. For the Aussie the amount of money probably is less then he pays at McDonalds, that is just disgusting. Not to mention the fact that there was a largish group hanging out and he left it for that. I now know why there is so much violence against women in the world because in most parts of the world we can be purchased for the same as a Big Mac.  It's interesting to me that right now in the USA republicans are trying to disallow birth control coverage at the same time I'm dealing with these items.  Just proves that there are a lot of dumb guys out there.  (Sorry for all the amazing guys I know but I'm just over it right now)

Also, I dealt with a guy peeing on the floor in the dorm room. And not cleaning it up! Just leaving it for the cleaning staff. Not apologizing to the others in the room!

Who are these people? Why do they have absolutely no respect for other people? I mean I know I have a lot to improve on but in general I try not to blatantly disrespect people.

Luang Prabang to Huay Xai - Slow boat

13 and 14 February 2012 - Pak Beng and Huay Xai

After not much debate I decided to take the two day slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai at the Laos/Thai border.  I was worried because there were reports of it being very cramped and imagined 2 days on the second boat to Nong Kiaw!  That would be horrible.

This was totally the right call as the boat ride was amazing!  As we were heading the opposite way of most travelers we had the double bus seats so plenty of room.  Not to mention there was actually an aisle we could walk down along with a toilet.  It was an great ride with beautiful scenery.  Totally relaxing and wonderful.

The first day everyone pretty much stuck to themselves and read or listened to music.

When we made it into Pakbeng for the night I saw a couple of cyclists on the hill as I was unloading everything off of the boat (and ensuring I wasn't going to pay anyone an 'unloading' fee).  By the time I got Mabel and the bags up the stairs they were gone but I would find them shortly just checking into a guesthouse.  Six of them, they all met on the boat from Huay Xai.

So I decided to stay there as well and we had dinner and chatted.  It was great to meet so many cyclists and one of them was from Wisconsin so that was kind of funny.  It's nice to hear someone else with the same accent.

The next day there was more talking and I chatted with a Czech couple and a French guy.  Also filled out a job application.  That felt really weird but hey I had 10 hours on the boat as we were traveling against the current.

Mabel is getting a suntan on top

1000 buddha cave (tour we missed but got to see the outside)

locals swimming and playing

Long boat on the Mekong

Dien Bien Phu to Moung Khoua

3 February 2012 – Dien Bien Phu to Muong Mai – 67 km

Started in the dark as I woke up early and thought I might as well get to the ride as I knew there was going to be 25 km of climbing. The first 20 kms were pretty flat but it started to rain shortly into the ride so I stopped and put on my rain cape. Needless to say the rain didn't stay so I had to take the cape back off. This would happen again before I realized it wasn't going to pour and just road the while that it was raining.

The climb was long and of course foggy. Slowly upwards I trudged. Finally I got to the Vietnam border and got stamped out and then started on the way to the Laos border. I believed there was shops halfway there (3 km) so I skipped the cafe at this side. That was a mistake as the shops were closed in between and when I got to the Laos side there cafe was also closed.

Luckily the border was open so I filled out my forms gave them my money and got back on the bike. The first 3 km were terrifying as the fog was thick, there was no guard rail, and the road was slick and greasy. Luckily that didn't last long and coming out of the fog there was a couple of rough km but then got to the section where the class 5 has been put down. After this it was 15 km of downhill, still fairly heavy on the brake but mostly smooth. I was glad it hadn't rained here.

Another 12 km and I found myself in a town which I believe to be Muong Mai. Though at the time I didn't care as I was starving. I hadn't had a proper breakfast because I left so early nothing was open and then the last food stall came sooner then expected. It was great to get to the restaurant and have the owner mime “You want food?” and then just bring out a bunch of food. So much so that I actually didn't finish all of it.

Then trekked up the hill to follow the sign for the guesthouse. It was worth it as the guesthouse is very cute. Later I found 3 more and a hotel but I'm glad I chose mine. I was surprised to see it had a shower (cold), had expected a bowl shower.

Coming into Laos is not as dramatic as Cambodia to Vietnam but it is different. Now back to the basics of finding out how to get myself fed and housed. So far other than the distance between restaurants it's been pretty straight forward.

Wandered through the village and looked at the thatched buildings and dirt roads. It has a very different feel from Vietnam and the hustle. No horns honked, few cars, really delightful.

We'll see what tomorrow brings.

04 February 2012 – Muang Khoua – 40 km

Today started muddy. I had to grip the railing of the suspension bridge to push Mabel and I off the ramp and onto the bridge. Thankfully a guy came and gave me a little push at the end to get me up. Then cycled some rough roads for the next 20 km or so. Once again climbed for the morning while enjoying beautiful views of the valley below.

Then as I got to the downhill section I was delighted to find that the class 5 had been poured and as I went was finishing being compacted. A smooth ride for the next 5 km prior to an even more surprising brand new asphalt! 5 more km of that and on to a gentle downhill with a decent roadway.

Got to ford a stream today. First of the trip. Then shortly after I came upon the river that needed a ferry and as such Muang Khoua. This was a surprise because I thought I had another 15 km to go. As I was looking for a guesthouse I saw some white people and asked them if they knew about the ferry.

Then as I went to the second guesthouse I heard my name. There was John. I had thought he would be long gone by now but turns out he did a few day trek and decided to have a rest day. Sounds like he has been putting in quite the km which makes me very glad that I decided to take my own lumbering way!

Son La to Dien Bien Phu

31 January 2012 – Tong Lenh – 30 km

Technically I was suppose to have a long day today but the hill was at the end of the day and I didn't know how my legs would deal with it so I slept in and stopped at a village. I was suppose to stop at Thuan Chau but accidentally stopped at the little village prior to it.

One of my favorite moments of today was when brothers on a bike stopped at the top of a hill to wave at me and the younger one reached out and touched my hand. He then proceeded to shriek in excitement. I think he said something like this “Oh my I touched the falang!!! You didn't do it brother...I did though!”

The guesthouse was not the nicest but the family that owned it once again made me feel welcome. They also took a turn on Mabel. Coming back with one of the ladies sitting on the rack and the other pedaling. I don't think they figured out that they could change gears. The guesthouse in Thuan Chau looked like it would be nicer than mine but I like stopping in villages that don't get many tourists.

As they were taking Mabel for a spin the rest of the family showed me how they eat the sour/bitter fruit I had tried a couple of days ago. They split it in two and take the pit out prior to wrapping it in cabbage with cilantro and dipping it in a sauce of sugar, garlic, fish sauce and probably some other stuff. It still has the sour at the end but the mixture is really pleasant.

Went and got snacks for dinner including a sweet baguette! Didn't realize how much I had missed bread until I took a bite of the freshly baked goodness. Have been drinking Milo as I can't find chocolate anywhere.

I also figured out why the hats up here are shaped the way they are. They have a wider bottom and then a tall section of hat. As I saw the ladies with helmets 3 inches above their heads it occurred to me that the hats allow for the traditional buns on the top of their heads to be covered as well as their ears. 

 

01 February 2012 – Tuan Giao – 53 km

Today was about fifty fifty of climbing and downhill. The climb was tough partly because there was a small TV antenna a couple of km from the top of the hill which has a large TV antenna (milemarker 364.4). Since I hoped it was the top when I saw the first antenna the last couple of km dragged by.

The downhill was a dream! After 5 km the fog finally cleared and I could see the valley as I descended. For some reason every long decent makes me in awe of myself. I just can't believe that I can cycle up a mountain and get to come down it! I suppose at some point this won't be such a surprise but right now I still feel like it is someone else that cycles as I can't do that.

I've become really good at getting into town just as school is getting out for lunch (or the day?). So I pass by all the children on their way home and wave and say Hello as they go the opposite way on their own bikes.

Getting into town I scouted out the guesthouse situation. I only saw one signed from the main road so I decided to go to that one first and then see if there were others. It turned out that the guesthouse was very cute and had a little cafe attached. The owner must get a lot of cycle tourists as she had the miming job down to a T and even showed me the menu before I went up to my room to say they had food. Yes, a menu which means I will not have to have Pho for dinner tonight!!!

Also, it has the softest towels! I was in heaven when I touched them as most aren't that soft.

One thing that isn't as great with the mountains is that the dogs chase you here. I don't think they are used to people on bikes because the hills are so steep so they think I'm easy prey. Luckily so far a good yell has kept them at bay.

The town is a great place to see people in their colorful garb and we take turns staring! It's nice to be able to stare and not feel self conscious as everyone is staring at me as well. Of course I don't have the guts to take photos of them unlike some of the younger generation took of me today.

Found out that the owner of the guesthouse kid lives in Oklahoma.   

02 February 2012 - Dien Bien Phu - 80 km

Today the first 30 km or so were beautiful following a river and having bright green rice paddies.  There were plenty of little villages to ride through and it was pleasant.

Then a climb started and once again climbed into the fog.  Not a bad climb and once on the other side the sun started to burn through the fog and it came out.  It actually became quite a hot day.

Saw awesome bridges were the caissons were weaved bamboo filled with rocks.  Of course the two I saw was when I was going over 40 km/hr without pedaling...which doesn't happen often so I didn't stop for a photo. 

Right before town there was an intersection and I wasn't sure which way to go.  So I took a left and saw a guy so asked him if it was the way.  He pointed the opposite way and as I went he then followed me and asked repeatedly for money and followed creepily close.  I am very happy to be leaving Vietnam tomorrow!  I'm so sick of everyone only helping you if they think they will get something out of it.

Got into town and felt like I could still go on but wanted to hit up the internet and wasn't sure if the border town actually had any guesthouses.  

Had some depressing personal news (nothing major) but left me feeling drained.

Wandered around town looking for places to change dong to kip but didn't find any and since I was feeling a little blue headed back to the hotel.  Of course prior to that I saw one of the giant monuments for the battle against the french.

Mai Chau to Son La

28 January 2012 – Mai Chau to Moc Chau – 60 km

The morning started good. In Mai Chau it was cloudy but pleasant. This didn't last long as I started the ascent fog settled in. It was so thick that I actually thought about taking off my glasses as I might have been able to see better!

Just as I was starting to get disheartened from climbing into a void for 2.5 hours. I turned a corner and there, much to my surprise, was a beautiful, clear, sunny sky! The rest of the climb was long but the scenery was outstanding.  Being able to look back at where I had been really helps keep the mind positive.  It was amazing to see the sun as it had been over 2 weeks since I'd had a sunny day.

Beginning of ride

End of ride...Hello Sun

more sunny scenes

After entering the sunshine the route undulated through the mountains. With a couple of exceptional downhill sections. On one such segment I past an older gentleman on a motorbike and he motioned for me to stop but I was going to enjoy my well deserved downhill and bolted past him. I stopped to refill my water and he caught up with me speaking in Vietnamese. But from his actions I gathered he was impressed. He may have said something lewd as he smacked my legs but I think he was saying I must be strong...judging from his facial expression. Then he kissed my hand farewell and best of luck (assuming). It was pretty awesome.

Got into town a lot sooner then I thought as I didn't think there was going to be as much downhill as there was.

Wandered around town. Finding food actually was difficult as I think everything was still closed for Tet. After three tries I finally found a place that was open and would serve me.

Went to the market to grab some fruit and the lady had a fruit I had never seen. I pointed and asked about it and she a little too eagerly agreed to let me try one. I complied as I like trying new things and was encountered with a sour bitter fruit. Reminded me of chokecherries without the pleasant flavor first. We laughed as I decided not to purchase those fruit and instead went for some oranges.

29 January 2012 – Moc Chau to Yen Chau – 60 km

Started the day with a gentle climb out of town. Then a blissful day of downhill. The clear skies of yesterday did not stay but it was a pleasant cloudy day with great views. A nice day of minimal effort while enjoying pedalling through small villages. I made it to my destination before noon and had to decide if I wanted to continue.

I had a couple of bike things to do plus my legs were quite sore from the days prior so I decided to stop and enjoy a short day.

Once again had trouble finding lunch. Luckily I went to where I knew I would find food...the market. Had yet another bowl of pho. Then for dessert had deep fried goodness with sweet filling. I really needed something other than just pho so it was a great find.

Bamboo bridge

the road

Then took a nap and fixed up Mabel before heading to hopefully find something to eat. There happened to be a little place near by so I went in hoping to mime for food. Ended up having a great dinner tonight. Probably the best I have had while just miming (though one of the top in Vietnam as well). I ordered rice and beef but was shown pork which was fine. Out came the sliced pork and rice and then other dishes kept coming. My favorite was tofu with tomatoes. Also had soup and steamed kohlrabi. The owner even put on an english language TV station to make me feel welcome. It was really sweet.

30 January 2012 - Son La - 62 km

Today was another day of riding through villages.  Actually a lot more villages today with colorful native clothes.  My favorite of today was an older women with a bright green sweater vest and traditional head garment (pink, red and black) with traditional pants that moved to the side of the road as I passed and waved to me.  She had such a welcoming smile!

Half hearted shot of mountains

How far have I gone this time?...oh thanks

Sneaking a photo of the ox pulled plow

Got into town and found a decent looking and priced hotel.  Only after I checked in did I notice the signs for massage and the massage parlor next door....but the room is nicer than the other hotels and cheaper so if it is a brothel it's a nice one.  

Went to find food and for the first time in a while I achieved it no problem.  After I received my dish the family that owned the restaurant sat down for their lunch.  The owner brought me over one of his deep fried rice/fish/pea things which I ate happily.  After I could slow down eating enough to look around I saw them motion for me to come over to their table.  I now know that anytime you are offered food by Vietnamese you will get drunk.  I don't understand the etiquette but four or five shots in or a very strong alcohol I was trying to shove enough food in to counter it.  

Needless to say I had many more of the deep fried things along with fried pork fat, pork/beef bits? (maybe nose?), delicious sour fish soup, beef with vegetables and only a little of my chicken with mushrooms.  It was a fun lunch and I was glad to get to try so many different things!  

Had some more climbing to do today but wasn't too bad.  My legs are beginning to feel it though so I have decided to cut tomorrows ride in half.  There is a big climb late in the day and I just don't think my legs will make it.  This not only means a short day for me but more importantly a sleep in!

Hanoi to Mai Chau

26 January 2012 - Hanoi to Hoa Binh – 65 km

Started solo touring again today. After taking a couple scenic detours of Hanoi and finally getting some help from a couple of military guys I was on my way.

I forgot how much fun it is to go at your own pace! Not to mention that I feel like I've started an adventure. I liked touring with someone but it is so easy. Nothing is really ever a challenge. Of course today was a good day so we'll see how I feel when I have a really crappy day. :O)

The day was overcast but luckily it never lead to full on rain just mist. About 40 km into the ride I came across a cyclist going the other way from Austria. After chatting for a bit I got cold so headed on my way. Shortly afterward I started into the karst landscape which had peak out a couple of times earlier in the day.

Mabel with Communist billboards

Karst out of the fields

Gardens in Hoa Binh

Hmm...what is it?

Delicious! Little bit pear, mangosteen, and something I can't put my finger on

Stopped for a coffee where the old lady shop owner stoke the portable fire for me. She tried to have a chat with me but gave up after a while and we just enjoyed the heat from the fire.

Got into Hoa Binh by midafternoon where I found a guesthouse. Wandered around town a bit. I love how excited children get when they see me walking. They look once...then again...then normally a shrill scream or FALANG or HELLO is uttered with accompanying finger pointing. It makes me laugh everytime.

The other thing I really like about Vietnam is that the older generation is just as amused at seeing me on a bicycle. Normally older men but women as well will yell “Hello” and wave as I pass with a somewhat bewildered look on their face.

Found out that most guesthouses have HBO and Star Movie channel so spent a good portion of the evening watching movies.

27 January 2012 - Hoa Binh to Mai Chau - 65 km 

Today started off good though a little slow as I remember how hard it is to get out of bed when the temperature is low.

Got breakfast prior to starting the day.  Realized that what I thought was sugar in my soup is actually MSG.  Took me awhile but I catch on.

The landscape was pretty from the start as I climbed into the mountains and saw the sugar cane growing with the mountains behind.  I also saw my first terraced rice paddies today.  

Then at about km 40  a guy waved me in for tea with him, his wife and three kids.  We chatted and then as I was ready to leave he said "How bout you stay here tonight? Mai Chau tomorrow.  Show you inside village today."  I thought about it and decided that it would be fun.

We went down a muddy track to the village with great views along the way.  First stop was his sisters where we had tea and then they started pouring rice wine.  I had to firmly say no more but still some came anyway.  Then she served up little whole fish with bamboo, sticky rice, and kohlrabi salad w/ pork fat.

After this we went to visit his brother where we had a cup of tea.  I was starting to feel a little uneasy about the situation...not really for any reason other than it was a feeling.  I've learned that when this feeling occurs around men it is best to exit.  Since it was only 3:00 pm I knew I should be able to climb the rest of the hill and due the downhill arriving in Mai Chau just before dark. 

When we got back to his hut I told him I better be going and packed up the bike.  Of course he then asked for  "Happy New Year money".  I gave him a bill just to be gone and headed on my way.

He came with his scooter to try help me up the hill but I was too scared of crashing to let him.  He said goodbye and I had 6 km of climbing to do.  

Hills with sugarcane fields

Looking down at the village I visited

Stilt houses

Me being shown around the kitchen of the sister of my guide

Finally a picture of a water buffalo

View from my window in Mai Chau

*Note mom and faux mom's might not want to read the next paragraph* 

I will say that this 6 km of climbing was possibly the scariest of my life.  Now that everything worked out fine it really wasn't dramatic.  At the time the fog was so thick that I could see 10 meters in front of myself and I wasn't exactly sure that I knew when the climb should be done and I was losing sunlight. Not to mention because my creep meter had went off I was envisioning the guy stalking me and waiting to pounce (this was NOT going to happen he had just wanted to make some extra cash and was really nice I just had thought he invited me in out of kindness).  This is when I start scolding myself for doing something that could have gotten me into trouble.  Note to self:  Only accept offers from kindly old ladies. ;)

As it was my calculations on how far I had left were correct and I was happy to come up to the breeze clearing the fog which is a telltale sign that I'm at the top of the hill.  I got  my head out of near panic zone and enjoyed the rest of the ride.  The view from the hill was amazing.  It was cloudy but not foggy so I could look out on the mountains and rice paddies.  Since I still had 20 km to go and didn't really believe the book that said it was all down hill I didn't stop to take pictures as I didn't want to lose the light.  The downhill was brilliant and quick.  I would have had plenty of time to stop.  Then turned off Highway 6 to continue to Mai Chau, bittersweet this was downhill.  I will be cycling back that way tomorrow morning.

The valley is beautiful and I got in as everyone from the fields was walking home.  It was a great finish to a great day.

Cat Ba Island and Halong Bay

19 January 2012 - Cat Ba Island

Luckily when we were looking for the bike shop yesterday we found the Long Bien Station so we knew exactly where it was.

Bought our tickets easily (what?!) and had plenty of time to chill while we waited for the train to arrive.

After the noneventful train ride we rushed to the ferry terminal with some local help in finding it.  We had been warned about the 2 ladies that overcharged and we were not able to miss them.  But it turns out we were on the fast ferry so it only took 45 minutes to get to the island.  Though we had a 40 km ride from the ferry terminal and Cat Ba town.

The ride was pleasant even though my lungs were not appreciating the effort as they were still recovering from a cold.  The sun even came out for a bit as we rode through the karst landscape on the coast.

We had a couple with there child who were on motorbike who let us pass so their little girl could wave at us and then passed us again and were at the top of the hill enjoying the view.  The girl thought we were an awesome sight and just giggled as her parents waved her arms.

20 January 2012 - Halong Bay

VODKAREDBULL is the word of the day.  No I was not drinking them but the Aussies were.  Turns out most of the boat was a group of friends from Oz that had gotten smashed the night before and as such were having hair of the dog.  It hurt me to watch someone drink vodka redbulls at 8:00 am.  Please stick to beer for your continued drinking pleasure.  I knew that the day would be entertaining!

Anyway while we stopped to get the kayaks the guys thought it was kayak time and as such went for a swim.  Then they decided to get into the kayaks and somehow Vodka Redbull (the guy was yelling it all day)  managed to sink a kayak!  So we got to watch as the sober guys tried to get a kayak full of water out of the sea.  It wasn't even 9:00.

After this episode everyone was pretty subdued for awhile as we took in the beauty of the bays and the guys warmed up from their brisk swim.

We then went for a nice kayak through the bays and even got a little bit of sun to come out.  Then enjoyed a lunch prior to heading back through the bays.  It was beautiful even though it was overcast.

Rice paddies and karst on the way to Cat Ba town

Cave while kayaking

Yes Sir this is really happening

The guys helping get the fully submerged kayak out of the water

Village in the bays

Cave in the bay

Foggy bay

More Halong bay

21 January 2012 - Hanoi

Due to Tet being on Monday the ferry options for Sunday were limited.  We wanted to get a ferry directly from Cat Ba Town but the one that took bikes didn't run so we decided to head back already on Saturday.

The ferry left at 5:15 am.  We knew that it would be close to catch our train but we should've had about 40 minutes which would be plenty of time.  When we got into port we had 25 minutes to get from port to the train station and get us and the bikes on board.

We booked it to the station and made it with plenty of time to spare....three minutes from when the train was suppose to leave.  It ended up being 15 minutes before the train left...we could've taken our time.

When we got into Hanoi we got off at the Long Bien Station but the train started to move and there was no cargo unloaded.  I stayed with the bags as John ran off with our cargo tickets...turns out that they only unload at the end of the station.  So we quickly hopped back on the train and off we went 3 km more.

All in all it was an adventurous morning but when we got to our hotel they had got our email of the change of plans and our room was ready!  Love the Camel City Hotel!!