17 March - Auckland to Helensville (via train to Waitekere)
Looking at the weather I realized that I needed to head out of Auckland early as it was suppose to rain all weekend and I knew my motivation to leave would be nonexistent. The start of tour was bumpy as I didn't fill ANY of my water bottles prior to getting on the train out of the city. Of course I wouldn't know that a suburban end of the line station would be small with limited resources (oh wait I worked on rail lines obviously been away too long).
Anyway spent the first 12 km without water on a hilly section of road. Luckily the town that was on my map was actually a map and not a cluster of houses. So I stopped and had an ice cream and filled my water bottles prior to the next 30 km.
I still had Surly Coffee Bender so I had one to celebrate St. Paddy's day and then went to bed in my concentration camp bunk (three tall and if there was anyone sleeping in the bunk next to me we would have played footsie).
18 March 2011 - Helensville to Wellsford - 56 km
This day was meant to be an epic one. Mostly because after leaving Helensville the only budget accommodation wasn't for another 120 km. Well as it went I only made it 60 km. The first 30 km were hilly but I was still on schedule doing it in just over 2 hours.
Then something clicked to wrong. I would say I bonked but I could still get on my bike and pedal (albeit not for long stretches at a time). Needless to say it took me 5 hours to complete the last 30 km in which I cried, ate, bribed, babied, yelled, encouraged and a million other emotions and states to keep me going. It was one of the most unpleasant experiences I've been through.
When I got to Wellsford I checked myself into a motel (even though my budget told me to freedom camp) where I watched tv and contemplated keeping going on this tour. After reasoning with myself that the next day I would do 60 km and then could do as little as 20 km for the next three days I decided to continue.
19 March - Wellsford to Matakohe - 55 km
This day was pretty much the complete opposite of yesterday. It was hilly and hot but I took my time and had a pleasant ride. On one of my breaks the owner of the mailbox that I had leaned Stella on came and invited me in for tea. It turns out that it was one of three sisters (one who's name was Stella) that are retired and now live together in the country tending there garden in hopes of being self sufficient. After tea they gave me apples and grapes out of their garden.
Then I was stopped on a hill be a man putting firewood into his trailer. He asked where I was going and when I said Cape Reinga he exclaimed that he had told his son that.
Continuing on I went to the Kauri Musuem which was only 400 meters from my campground. Once I got back I had my second dinner for the night and set up camp. Then I was still hungry so I made a "after dinner snack". When in the kitchen an Australian couple and I began talking and it turned out that they were leaving the country the next day so they made me a care package with items they couldn't take back with them. It was super cute and was a perfect end to a great day where I felt like I was pampered all day.
20 March 2011 - Matakohe to Kaihu - 90 km
Met a German/British couple in Dargaville and ended up riding the rest of the day with them. It was odd getting used to riding with someone after I had ridden by myself for so long. They stayed at a campsite and I continued up a hill to a backpackers.
21 March 2011 - Kaihu to Kohu Kohu - 80 km
This was a hilly day as well but long and gradual. These are the kind I've become quite good at. I also rode through the Waipoua forest which was beautiful. As soon as I started into the forest the word 'fresh' was stuck in my head. I love when a feeling of a place is just as, if not more, enchanting than the look. The Waipoua forest has Kauri trees that are thousands of years old and loom over you in a way that reminds you how insignificant you are.
After the forest I met up with the German/British couple (Anna and Liam) and we rode the rest of the way together. It was sprinkling most of the day but as we got into Kohu Kohu off of the ferry it began to steadily rain. I spent the night at a warmshowers host who were planning a year off in Europe. It was a lovely night.
22 March 2011 - Kohu Kohu to Ahipara - 64 km
This was a day of gentle rolling hills. With the help of Wichard (warmshowers host) I cut off 5 km of hills. Arriving in Ahipara the beach was beautiful. This is the beginning of 90 mile beach which during low tide can be driven on all the way to Cape Reinga. I had a lovely time sitting on the beach watching a kite skater.
23 March 2011 - Ahipara to Cape Reinga via bus
As I got closer to Ahipara I had decided due to the weather I wouldn't cycle all the way to Cape Reinga (115 km one way). After taking the bus trip I was quite happy with my decision! The road was hilly and windy with only logging trucks and buses driving it. Not to mention that most of the drive up looked very similar.
We stopped at Cape Reinga and the weather was perfectly calm and cloudy. Both of these were rare but I got them both. You are suppose to be able to see where the Tasmen and Pacific meet in a clash but all we saw was a thin line with slightly different colors on either side. It was still a beautiful spot and can see why the Maori see it as a spiritual place.
After lunch we headed down the 'quicksand stream' and got to boogie board down big sand dunes. Then we continued to drive down 90 mile beach and back to Ahipara
24 March 2011 - Ahipara to Mangonui - 54 km
Normally on a day like today I would have just got back into my tent and stayed where I was but as the weather was changing I didn't want to be stuck in Ahipara for 3 more days. So I headed out against a strong headwind for the full day.
Mangonui is know to have one of the best fish and chip shops in the country so I had to stop and see for myself. They were the best I have had. Of course as I was tired from headwind and now full I didn't think I could make it the 20 km to the hostel I had aimed for. As it was I got to experience the loveliness that is a Pub accommodation. Lets just leave it at there was no lock on the bathroom...fun times.
25 March 2011 - Mangonui to Kahoe - 20 km
The rain that I was hoping to not have to ride in came with a vengeance today. I had determined that I would ride to the hostel I had tried to make it to last night and would stay there if they had space otherwise continue to Kerikeri. Luckily they did have a space and I was once again reunited with Anna and Liam.
26 March 2011 - Kahoe
It was supposed to rain so I didn't ride today. Of course it didn't end up raining but I spent the day tagging along with a British couple to Taupo bay.
27 March 2011 - Kahoe to Pahia - 67 km
Decent ride it rain a little but was so humid I had to take off my rain gear as I was steaming myself to death.
Beautiful to get into Pahia. It's a lovely town even though it is such a tourist destination.
28 and 29th March 2011 - Pahia
Spent a couple of days in the Bay of Islands. Took the ferry over to Russell where I wandered around and enjoyed the quaint town. Didn't get up to much but that is kinda the point of this picturesque locale.
30 March 2011 - Pahia to Whangerei - 68 km
A beautiful day for a ride and mostly a pretty view. Stayed at another warmshowers host. They were a lovely couple planning their first bicycle tour. Both of them were visually impaired to the point where they needed to ride on a tandem with a seeing person. It had never occurred to me that this would be a need and hope in the future to help someone continue with or begin a new love in cycling.
31 March 2011 - Whangerei to Uretiti Beach - 38 km
What a lovely day today was. The weather was absolutely wonderful and the shortish ride allowed me plenty of time to lounge on the beach. I went for a swim, ate fejioas, read a book, and generally enjoyed a lovely day.
To make things even better the camp manager lent me a beach mat and chair to use while I was at the campground. It was great to be able to sit in a chair! The small things that you take for granted when you can't carry them with you.
1 April 2011 - Uretiti Beach to Waipu - 10 km
Spent the morning at the beach and then made my way to Waipu. The warmshowers host here were a lovely family and the daughter, mother and I went to the beach in the afternoon for another swim.
2 April 2011 - Waipu to Wellsford - 55 km then bus to Auckland
This day was a magical way to end the tour. Felt like I was in paradise as I biked in the sun past beautiful and mostly empty beaches. The trees growing right up to the beach which allowed for some shade while enjoying the water.
