Mai Chau to Son La

28 January 2012 – Mai Chau to Moc Chau – 60 km

The morning started good. In Mai Chau it was cloudy but pleasant. This didn't last long as I started the ascent fog settled in. It was so thick that I actually thought about taking off my glasses as I might have been able to see better!

Just as I was starting to get disheartened from climbing into a void for 2.5 hours. I turned a corner and there, much to my surprise, was a beautiful, clear, sunny sky! The rest of the climb was long but the scenery was outstanding.  Being able to look back at where I had been really helps keep the mind positive.  It was amazing to see the sun as it had been over 2 weeks since I'd had a sunny day.

Beginning of ride

End of ride...Hello Sun

more sunny scenes

After entering the sunshine the route undulated through the mountains. With a couple of exceptional downhill sections. On one such segment I past an older gentleman on a motorbike and he motioned for me to stop but I was going to enjoy my well deserved downhill and bolted past him. I stopped to refill my water and he caught up with me speaking in Vietnamese. But from his actions I gathered he was impressed. He may have said something lewd as he smacked my legs but I think he was saying I must be strong...judging from his facial expression. Then he kissed my hand farewell and best of luck (assuming). It was pretty awesome.

Got into town a lot sooner then I thought as I didn't think there was going to be as much downhill as there was.

Wandered around town. Finding food actually was difficult as I think everything was still closed for Tet. After three tries I finally found a place that was open and would serve me.

Went to the market to grab some fruit and the lady had a fruit I had never seen. I pointed and asked about it and she a little too eagerly agreed to let me try one. I complied as I like trying new things and was encountered with a sour bitter fruit. Reminded me of chokecherries without the pleasant flavor first. We laughed as I decided not to purchase those fruit and instead went for some oranges.

29 January 2012 – Moc Chau to Yen Chau – 60 km

Started the day with a gentle climb out of town. Then a blissful day of downhill. The clear skies of yesterday did not stay but it was a pleasant cloudy day with great views. A nice day of minimal effort while enjoying pedalling through small villages. I made it to my destination before noon and had to decide if I wanted to continue.

I had a couple of bike things to do plus my legs were quite sore from the days prior so I decided to stop and enjoy a short day.

Once again had trouble finding lunch. Luckily I went to where I knew I would find food...the market. Had yet another bowl of pho. Then for dessert had deep fried goodness with sweet filling. I really needed something other than just pho so it was a great find.

Bamboo bridge

the road

Then took a nap and fixed up Mabel before heading to hopefully find something to eat. There happened to be a little place near by so I went in hoping to mime for food. Ended up having a great dinner tonight. Probably the best I have had while just miming (though one of the top in Vietnam as well). I ordered rice and beef but was shown pork which was fine. Out came the sliced pork and rice and then other dishes kept coming. My favorite was tofu with tomatoes. Also had soup and steamed kohlrabi. The owner even put on an english language TV station to make me feel welcome. It was really sweet.

30 January 2012 - Son La - 62 km

Today was another day of riding through villages.  Actually a lot more villages today with colorful native clothes.  My favorite of today was an older women with a bright green sweater vest and traditional head garment (pink, red and black) with traditional pants that moved to the side of the road as I passed and waved to me.  She had such a welcoming smile!

Half hearted shot of mountains

How far have I gone this time?...oh thanks

Sneaking a photo of the ox pulled plow

Got into town and found a decent looking and priced hotel.  Only after I checked in did I notice the signs for massage and the massage parlor next door....but the room is nicer than the other hotels and cheaper so if it is a brothel it's a nice one.  

Went to find food and for the first time in a while I achieved it no problem.  After I received my dish the family that owned the restaurant sat down for their lunch.  The owner brought me over one of his deep fried rice/fish/pea things which I ate happily.  After I could slow down eating enough to look around I saw them motion for me to come over to their table.  I now know that anytime you are offered food by Vietnamese you will get drunk.  I don't understand the etiquette but four or five shots in or a very strong alcohol I was trying to shove enough food in to counter it.  

Needless to say I had many more of the deep fried things along with fried pork fat, pork/beef bits? (maybe nose?), delicious sour fish soup, beef with vegetables and only a little of my chicken with mushrooms.  It was a fun lunch and I was glad to get to try so many different things!  

Had some more climbing to do today but wasn't too bad.  My legs are beginning to feel it though so I have decided to cut tomorrows ride in half.  There is a big climb late in the day and I just don't think my legs will make it.  This not only means a short day for me but more importantly a sleep in!

Hanoi to Mai Chau

26 January 2012 - Hanoi to Hoa Binh – 65 km

Started solo touring again today. After taking a couple scenic detours of Hanoi and finally getting some help from a couple of military guys I was on my way.

I forgot how much fun it is to go at your own pace! Not to mention that I feel like I've started an adventure. I liked touring with someone but it is so easy. Nothing is really ever a challenge. Of course today was a good day so we'll see how I feel when I have a really crappy day. :O)

The day was overcast but luckily it never lead to full on rain just mist. About 40 km into the ride I came across a cyclist going the other way from Austria. After chatting for a bit I got cold so headed on my way. Shortly afterward I started into the karst landscape which had peak out a couple of times earlier in the day.

Mabel with Communist billboards

Karst out of the fields

Gardens in Hoa Binh

Hmm...what is it?

Delicious! Little bit pear, mangosteen, and something I can't put my finger on

Stopped for a coffee where the old lady shop owner stoke the portable fire for me. She tried to have a chat with me but gave up after a while and we just enjoyed the heat from the fire.

Got into Hoa Binh by midafternoon where I found a guesthouse. Wandered around town a bit. I love how excited children get when they see me walking. They look once...then again...then normally a shrill scream or FALANG or HELLO is uttered with accompanying finger pointing. It makes me laugh everytime.

The other thing I really like about Vietnam is that the older generation is just as amused at seeing me on a bicycle. Normally older men but women as well will yell “Hello” and wave as I pass with a somewhat bewildered look on their face.

Found out that most guesthouses have HBO and Star Movie channel so spent a good portion of the evening watching movies.

27 January 2012 - Hoa Binh to Mai Chau - 65 km 

Today started off good though a little slow as I remember how hard it is to get out of bed when the temperature is low.

Got breakfast prior to starting the day.  Realized that what I thought was sugar in my soup is actually MSG.  Took me awhile but I catch on.

The landscape was pretty from the start as I climbed into the mountains and saw the sugar cane growing with the mountains behind.  I also saw my first terraced rice paddies today.  

Then at about km 40  a guy waved me in for tea with him, his wife and three kids.  We chatted and then as I was ready to leave he said "How bout you stay here tonight? Mai Chau tomorrow.  Show you inside village today."  I thought about it and decided that it would be fun.

We went down a muddy track to the village with great views along the way.  First stop was his sisters where we had tea and then they started pouring rice wine.  I had to firmly say no more but still some came anyway.  Then she served up little whole fish with bamboo, sticky rice, and kohlrabi salad w/ pork fat.

After this we went to visit his brother where we had a cup of tea.  I was starting to feel a little uneasy about the situation...not really for any reason other than it was a feeling.  I've learned that when this feeling occurs around men it is best to exit.  Since it was only 3:00 pm I knew I should be able to climb the rest of the hill and due the downhill arriving in Mai Chau just before dark. 

When we got back to his hut I told him I better be going and packed up the bike.  Of course he then asked for  "Happy New Year money".  I gave him a bill just to be gone and headed on my way.

He came with his scooter to try help me up the hill but I was too scared of crashing to let him.  He said goodbye and I had 6 km of climbing to do.  

Hills with sugarcane fields

Looking down at the village I visited

Stilt houses

Me being shown around the kitchen of the sister of my guide

Finally a picture of a water buffalo

View from my window in Mai Chau

*Note mom and faux mom's might not want to read the next paragraph* 

I will say that this 6 km of climbing was possibly the scariest of my life.  Now that everything worked out fine it really wasn't dramatic.  At the time the fog was so thick that I could see 10 meters in front of myself and I wasn't exactly sure that I knew when the climb should be done and I was losing sunlight. Not to mention because my creep meter had went off I was envisioning the guy stalking me and waiting to pounce (this was NOT going to happen he had just wanted to make some extra cash and was really nice I just had thought he invited me in out of kindness).  This is when I start scolding myself for doing something that could have gotten me into trouble.  Note to self:  Only accept offers from kindly old ladies. ;)

As it was my calculations on how far I had left were correct and I was happy to come up to the breeze clearing the fog which is a telltale sign that I'm at the top of the hill.  I got  my head out of near panic zone and enjoyed the rest of the ride.  The view from the hill was amazing.  It was cloudy but not foggy so I could look out on the mountains and rice paddies.  Since I still had 20 km to go and didn't really believe the book that said it was all down hill I didn't stop to take pictures as I didn't want to lose the light.  The downhill was brilliant and quick.  I would have had plenty of time to stop.  Then turned off Highway 6 to continue to Mai Chau, bittersweet this was downhill.  I will be cycling back that way tomorrow morning.

The valley is beautiful and I got in as everyone from the fields was walking home.  It was a great finish to a great day.

Cat Ba Island and Halong Bay

19 January 2012 - Cat Ba Island

Luckily when we were looking for the bike shop yesterday we found the Long Bien Station so we knew exactly where it was.

Bought our tickets easily (what?!) and had plenty of time to chill while we waited for the train to arrive.

After the noneventful train ride we rushed to the ferry terminal with some local help in finding it.  We had been warned about the 2 ladies that overcharged and we were not able to miss them.  But it turns out we were on the fast ferry so it only took 45 minutes to get to the island.  Though we had a 40 km ride from the ferry terminal and Cat Ba town.

The ride was pleasant even though my lungs were not appreciating the effort as they were still recovering from a cold.  The sun even came out for a bit as we rode through the karst landscape on the coast.

We had a couple with there child who were on motorbike who let us pass so their little girl could wave at us and then passed us again and were at the top of the hill enjoying the view.  The girl thought we were an awesome sight and just giggled as her parents waved her arms.

20 January 2012 - Halong Bay

VODKAREDBULL is the word of the day.  No I was not drinking them but the Aussies were.  Turns out most of the boat was a group of friends from Oz that had gotten smashed the night before and as such were having hair of the dog.  It hurt me to watch someone drink vodka redbulls at 8:00 am.  Please stick to beer for your continued drinking pleasure.  I knew that the day would be entertaining!

Anyway while we stopped to get the kayaks the guys thought it was kayak time and as such went for a swim.  Then they decided to get into the kayaks and somehow Vodka Redbull (the guy was yelling it all day)  managed to sink a kayak!  So we got to watch as the sober guys tried to get a kayak full of water out of the sea.  It wasn't even 9:00.

After this episode everyone was pretty subdued for awhile as we took in the beauty of the bays and the guys warmed up from their brisk swim.

We then went for a nice kayak through the bays and even got a little bit of sun to come out.  Then enjoyed a lunch prior to heading back through the bays.  It was beautiful even though it was overcast.

Rice paddies and karst on the way to Cat Ba town

Cave while kayaking

Yes Sir this is really happening

The guys helping get the fully submerged kayak out of the water

Village in the bays

Cave in the bay

Foggy bay

More Halong bay

21 January 2012 - Hanoi

Due to Tet being on Monday the ferry options for Sunday were limited.  We wanted to get a ferry directly from Cat Ba Town but the one that took bikes didn't run so we decided to head back already on Saturday.

The ferry left at 5:15 am.  We knew that it would be close to catch our train but we should've had about 40 minutes which would be plenty of time.  When we got into port we had 25 minutes to get from port to the train station and get us and the bikes on board.

We booked it to the station and made it with plenty of time to spare....three minutes from when the train was suppose to leave.  It ended up being 15 minutes before the train left...we could've taken our time.

When we got into Hanoi we got off at the Long Bien Station but the train started to move and there was no cargo unloaded.  I stayed with the bags as John ran off with our cargo tickets...turns out that they only unload at the end of the station.  So we quickly hopped back on the train and off we went 3 km more.

All in all it was an adventurous morning but when we got to our hotel they had got our email of the change of plans and our room was ready!  Love the Camel City Hotel!!

Hoi An to Hue

12 January 2012 - Danang - 30 km

Today it was raining when we started.  We were hoping to get to Lang Co but had decided to wait until lunch and decide where to stop.  We stopped 15 km into the ride to go to Marble Mountains which were 5 mounts in the middle of the plains.  It was impressive to ride towards them.  Wandered through the pagodas and caves of the mount.  One cave you continue through a person size hole to give a view of the surrounds...of course with the clouds it wasn't as impressive as on a sunny day.

3 of the other Marble mountains

looking out at the sea

This made me chuckle

By the time we got to Danang we still thought we could make it to Lang Co.  I enjoyed riding next to the beach even though it was rainy...the ocean is just reassuring to me.  As we got to the north part of the beach I realized that I wouldn't make it to Lang Co as my shoes were full of water and we would be climbing 600 meters and descending...plus I already was having lung issues.  So just 30 km into the day we found refuge in a hotel with food next door.

That night the hotpot we had and beers were super good and cheap!  Total cost was under 5 bucks for 2 people!  Nice score.

13 January 2012 - Hue - 115 km

John and I set off not knowing how far we would go today.  We hoped Hue but didn't know if this was actually going to happen due to having a couple of passes to go over and the weather.

Shortly after we started the first climb of the day began.  As we started up we saw an awesome set up of cycle tourists making there way down.  It was a tandem with a recumbent in front and a regular cycle in back with a trailer.  Thought it was great because both people could see plus it looked like an epic setup.

About the time we were ready for a sugary drink we came across a stall with the cutest puppies!  Two little puppers of absolute adorableness and the old lady owner chewing on her betel leaf was just as adorable.

Continuing on our climb the weather was overcast but we still got good views of the bays below.  Then there was a sign warning of fog.  They were not kidding! We slowly continued the climb through thick fog barely able to see 50 feet in front of us.  Turning a corner we mounted the last hill out of the fog and saw the Amercian Bunker on the top of the pass.

The winding path down was an easy descent. I saw John slowing on a curve and wondered why. When I turned the corner I saw goats and their kids crossing the roadway.  Don't see that everyday.  Then continued down to Lang Co for lunch.

As we left town we were accompanied by a boy who was having fun keeping up with us on his one speed.  I tried to show him how to draft but when he got in between John and I he thought it was too easy so got out of line to speed ahead.

There were a couple more small passes to go up and once we got over these the drizzle started in.  It wasn't too much luckily.  We turned off for the scenic route hoping that the bridge that appeared to be on there actually was.  The scenic route hugged a pretty lagoon with rolling hills...at this point I was REALLY hoping a bridge or ferry would be present so we didn't have to back track 15 km.

Views on the way out of Danang

Mabel

Hai Van Pass looking north

Rice paddies near the lagoon

Mythical bridge exists!

Me showing off why friends don't let friends not buy full fenders

And then there it was.  The prettiest bridge I've ever seen.  It's amazing how a concrete bridge can be beautiful when it means not retracing your steps!

We stopped at a food stand and the elderly couple running it were really nice.  After a little break off we went again.  Cycling past grand cemeteries.  

This was an epic day but it was really beautiful!

13 to 16 January 2012 - Hue

A teenager stopped and gave us directions to the bus station.   He offered to take us but we didn't want to make him cycle all the way back into town to show the stupid forgienors where the bus station. We said goodbye and then found out he has secretly followed us for over 4 km to make sure we made it to where we were going.  This was so sweet I wanted to get him something but knew it would have been an insult...whoever you are I hope you know how good that made me feel!

As jarring as south Vietnam was for me north Vietnam feels much more my style.  I had heard it wasn't as friendly but that isn't what I've found.    South Vietnam is Minnesota "Nice".  Which means that on the surface it's pleasant but that when you are a stranger it is hard to get anything done or understand the rules that people are playing by.

North Vietnam is much more straight forward.  Coffees are the same price where ever you go (cheaper than the south) and other things have fallen into a regular price as well.  Not to say I'm not being overcharged but I am routinely overcharged the same amount...which somehow reassures me...yes this is delusional thanks for noticing.  Also, people notice if you are in need of help and will stop to try and help you.  It's just easier to know what the rules are.  You sit down you get food.  Most of the time we no longer have to order people just bring us food.

And the food is better.  Or at least we get more variety.  I like pho but after two meals a day it gets old. Up here there are so many choices.  Though truthfully I miss my daily fruit shakes from Ho Chi Minh!  Not tropical here so can get mango but not much else...still good but not as cheap either.

We took a tour of the DMZ area.  It was really interesting and went into the caves where people lived for 3 years.  

Nha Trang and Hoi An

6 January 2012 - Nha Trang

We spent the first day in Nha Trang going to the hot spring/mud bath. It was awesome. 20 minutes in a slippery warm clay bath left my skin feeling silky. Then headed to the hot spring water tub prior to having a massage. After all this we went to the warm waterfall where the water acts as a natural massage...if I wasn't hungry I would've stayed there all day!

Oh and probably the best thing was  when we were heading there I was following signs to it and missed one so we had to back track....but we ended up at a gate confused because it was locked...or so it seemed but it actually just looked locked so the locals helped us. Also, prior to that was what looked like a really cute bicycle path that would have been fun to explore but sadly I never made it back there.

Woven basket boat 

Fishing boat

View from the balcony

7-8 January 2012 - Nha Trang

As the weather wasn't that great these two days I sat and enjoyed the balcony and really didn't do to much.  I did have to go on a 3 hour trip to find bus tickets to Hoi An but that was really all I ended up doing.

Did go down to the beach as well but since it was quite windy it was actually nicer to be on the balcony looking at the beach but hidden from the wind and sea mist.

And then on the night of the 8th we got to go on our first overnight bus! Once more I'm glad I'm short as I fit in the tight quarters just fine.

9 January 2012 - Hoi An

Getting into Hoi An is a very odd feeling.  As you walk in the old city there are cute shop fronts but then you notice this non Vietnamese music being piped into the lanes...very very odd.  Once the Disneyworld feeling wears off the town is adorable.

Though for me this was city was a special type of torture as everywhere there are tailors and cobblers waiting to make your ideal anything.  Since it is known for this it is hard to find a shop with good quality at good prices.

The first order of business was for me to order pants and a long sleeve shirt made.  I didn't have any warm clothes (or pants) and knew as we headed to Hanoi and northern Laos that this would be needed.  Originally I was going to get a suit made for when I'm job hunting but the price was still more then I wanted to pay right now.

Then as we were walking around I saw this jacket I was in love with.  I also had been wondering if I should get a jacket to wear off the bike...well I was kind of coerced into it by the sales lady but it turned out good and I once again have a green coat!

If I wasn't on a budget and had limited space I would now be the proud owner of a new wardrobes with multiple pairs of boots!!  But alas maybe next time.

That night we went down to the waterfront and to my surprise the road was underwater!  It was just past full moon and the tide change caused the road to flood.  There was an awesome photo opportunity as a bicycle was parked on what earlier was the sidewalk but now was "floating on water" with boats right behind it.  The streets were lit with silk lanterns and there were paper lanterns floating down the river.  Very pretty indeed.

10 January 2012 - Hoi An


Today I was planning on heading to the beach after my morning fitting for clothes but it was sprinkling.  As such I walked around a little but mostly hibernated or went to the different fittings for clothes.  There was no electricity in town today so the tailors were running behind...though next day turn around is kinda crazy for me.  I did end up getting my jacket which I really like and makes me feel like a real person when I wear it!

11 January 2012 - Hoi An

Today I went around old town.  Went over the Japanese Bridge, into the old homes, communal houses and the folk museum.  Then just wandered the streets alone.  It was drizzling and there weren't very many people out.  It was a great day.

Wontons...like nachos of Hoi An

View of the river

Japanese Bridge

Leaf mudflap

Lady with the best desert so far...sticky, syrupy rice balls with coconut

New clothes!!

ROAR...dragon

Fun while traveling

And today is one of those traveling days that I just want to be at home.

Not because I didn't have a great day.  I did.  I went out and had good food.  Stopped by the historic district and went to the Japanese Bridge, two meeting houses, two old houses, folklore museum, two temples, and just wandered around.  Not to mention the delicious sweets of rice balls filled with coconut and in a delicious syrup or the fact that I fixed my front brake by myself when I thought I needed a mechanic.  No it was a great day.......BUT:

I want to be home.  I'm having one of those days when I realize how much my friends mean to me.  When I realize that anytime I have a problem I call someone and they make everything better.  Today, if I was at home, I would call Em and see if she wanted to stop at the Bulldog for a drink.  If she was available I'd walk a block and a half prior to calling here to tell her I was close.  She would meet me downstairs and we would walk to Bulldog where it would take me 5 minutes to decide on a beer.  If I wasn't in a girly mood we'd call Morgan to come and meet us....this is what I miss.  I miss my safety net.  I miss being able to call people to catch up quick...to get my mind off of things...to enjoy their company.

Some days I wonder why I decided to go on my self imposed exile.  Why did I decide that moving across the world was a good idea?  And then I have to remember how hard it was for me to go to college in Minneapolis. How long it took me to adjust.  How many conversations with my mom it took me to feel comfortable.  Now I don't have the luxury of reliable phone conversations.  Now I have to rely on myself.  Am I reliable?  Will I succeed?  I think so.  It's hard to stand out by yourself and take the beating alone.  I have to remember that.

Good night home....all of you...I miss the ones I'm away from and I'm excited for the ones I haven't encountered yet.

Ho Chi Minh, Dalat, Phan Rang

28 December 2011 - Ho Chi Minh

First full day in Ho Chi Minh City we went for a tour of the Cu Chi tunnels which were an extensive tunnel system used by the Viet Cong in the American War. It was interesting to here about the history of these tunnels and how people lived in them for years.

The tour also Cai Dao temple which is a mix of a bunch of religions and was cool to see the temple as well as get to witness the service where the choir is very haunting and beautiful.

29 December 2011 - Ho Chi Minh

Went to Ben Thao Market to wander and to have lunch. Talked to a french girl who has an internship in Hanoi and was just down for a couple of days.

Then headed to the Reunification Palace. The palace had amazing furniture! I was enamored by it. Wandered by and around another building but don't know what it is...it's a pretty yellow french style building.

30 December 2011 - Ho Chi Minh

Went to the Post Office, Cathedral, Opera House and Town hall in the morning. Only went into the first two. Then headed to the history musuem hoping to see a water puppet show but they only perform if there are 10 people and we only had 5 so no luck. I then went in search of the Jade Pagoda but didn't find it. Pretty sure it was on the other side of a 6 lane roundabout and couldn't muster the motivation to cross.

So I went to the microbrewery I had read about. Had a dark beer. Good substitute for a pagoda!

31 December 2011 - Ho Chi Minh

Today was New Years Eve got up and ran some errands since it was the last day in the city. Then headed over to Chinatown. Both John and I felt that we had to ride at least one cyclo when in the city. So today was the day. We negotiated a price and were off. It was fun to be able to just enjoy the city slowly while not worrying about traffic! No crossing the street while walking or negotiating traffic while biking. Nice and relaxing. We got dropped off at the market prior to realizing that we didn't know where the market was! So we started to wander, just as I had stated that pagodas do not exist (I believed they were made up so you would wander by all the food stalls and stop) we came across a mostly demolished/refabbing pagoda. My theory was wrong. With hope revitalized we found a beautiful pagoda with the roof covered with beautiful sculptures depicting different scenes.

We then took a city bus back to our neighborhood and relaxed with a fresh fruit juice drink prior to decompress in the room for a couple of hours. We headed out for a burger...as we don't know the next time we with have the opportunity and then went to the corner stall for cheap beers. It was a great location to sit and watch the scene go by! The little “bar” normally had 9 or so tables and could fit 20 people....tonight the bar kept expanding until they ran out of chairs. This meant that people were soon sitting in what was once a vehicle lane! This was happening from both sides so it seemed that the number of scooters and cars had dramatically increased but most of it was that the lanes had reduced by half.

The street vendors were walking with silly string and what looked like shaving cream so you had to watch your drink so it was covered in foam. The nice thing was that as the bar expanded we ended up being in the middle instead of on the curb.

1 January 2012 - Ho Chi Minh to Dalat (Bus)

Took the bus from Ho Chi Minh to Dalat. This morning I finally figured out what the ladies in the guesthouse were doing! They had lights that they shone on what appeared to be dried fish and were picking tiny bits of black out of it to leave a clear jumble of tissue. When we were paying I looked at the cabinet that I took up the entire wall across from the ladies and in big letters it declared “Birds Nests”...they were cleaning birds nest for consumption! Never guessed that one and didn't notice the sign earlier because I would always be looking at the strangeness making it a game of what it could possibly be.

All of the bus employees thought that putting the bike under the bus was quite a thing! Once they were safely aboard the security guard gave me a smile while shaking his head in disbelief. I found out this morning that my chain was not only dirty (which I knew) but had rusted...so getting off the bus I needed to do some quick lube to allow the chain to move freely and then we started into town.

We knew that there was a flower festival going on but since most budget hotels aren't listed on the internet we took the approach of just arriving and finding a place. As we biked into town I was astonished at the amount of people! It seemed like we were in Ho Chi Minh for NYE again! A german man tried to call his hotel for us but it wouldn't go through so he suggested a street for us to go on and gave us directions. After searching a few places we found a little hotel for a reasonable price.

2 January 2012 - Dalat

Went to the “Crazy House” today and it was amazing. Pretty much what I dreamed of for my dream house. The only problem is that the railings for the stairs are below my center of gravity which I couldn't have...but it gives it a prettier look. The main buildings are built to look like trees. They have little cubbies everywhere. You can actually stay in the rooms of the different houses but I don't think it would be relaxing because it opens for tours at 7:00 am. Each room has a theme and the new pagoda style house will be complete in 2015ish.

It was a lot of fun to wander through this architects vision.

One of the tree buildings

Staircase on new temple building

looking at the ox head

Me at the front

Creepy Kangaroo stove in one of the rooms

John showing how low the railings are...looks good but doesn't feel good

Beehive bathroom

Then headed to the old King's palace. Personally my favorite part of the trip was the ice cream prior to entering, along with the creepy bunny sculpture, and being topped with me being UNDER charged! I felt this was karma telling me that it was okay to get swindled every now and again

It started to threaten rain so I spent time reading and doing bike maintenance prior to heading for dinner.

After having soup and a delicious hot soy milk with a pastry we headed down towards the lake. There were tons of stalls showing their flowers. It was amazing how many different orchids they had displayed! There were feathery orchids, green orchids, small, large, pink, red, purple, spotted, white with pink, yellow, and many others. Along with the orchids there were pitcher plants, cactus, bonsai trees, and roses. The bonsai's were in bloom and had cute white or pink flowers.

As my allergies have caused me to lose my voice and make it harder to breath we are waiting another day to leave so we should be able to see more of the flower festival and see the train station.

3 January 2012 - Dalat

Went around the lake. Was going to go into the flower festival but it looked unshaded and super busy so I went and sat in the shade to look at my map and realized how filthy Mabel was so I had an impromptu cleaning session prior to heading up to the train station. Then went to the cable car...which I failed at getting a ticket as I didn't understand what was going on. I believe that the next return trip was at 1:30 and it was prior to 11:00 but am still not quite sure. Since I was at the top anyway I took pictures of the surrounding area and headed back down the hill to eat a picnic lunch at the lake.

It was a pretty day and even though the lake is an odd shade of green it was nice to sit in the shade and have the ice cream man come around and get my favorite treat.

Then headed with John to a cafe as both of us lost ambition to go do our planned afternoon activities. Then had a major bike maintenance session where I found out that my front brake wasn't working!? Luckily another cycle tourist showed up at our hotel and had seen a bike shop (located at 329a Phan Dinh Phung). I went down and found him and pointed to the problem and stated that my brake didn't work. He immediately saw the problem and went to work fixing it....it was awesome to have bikes as an international language though he did speak a fair amount of english. Highly recommend his shop as he was awesomely nice!

Tonight was the last night of the flower festival and we once again headed down to the Central Market to see what was going on and grab dinner. We had another type of soup and this time I had a peanut milk which was great.

As we walked around the festivities we noticed a new set up and went to look at what was new. There were free samples of Dalat wine available. We tried a couple but as none of it was exceptional we watched the pop star sing for a bit, received lyrics and music to the festival song, and then headed back to the hostel since we were getting up early to start the ride.

4 January 2012 Dalat to Phan Rang - 110 km

Starting in Dalat I was surprised at how much pollution there was as I hadn't noticed it in the days prior.  Now that I was on my bike and with a chest cold I could feel it a lot.  Started the day with some climbs.  Stopped at this cute little cafe which had a courtyard underneath and there was a litter of puppies running around. As we climbed we entered a beautiful section of mistiness with the pine trees turning mysterious and a lady walking on the opposite side of the road in a rice hat.  Great visual.

Continued climbing and started a descent when John got a flat.  We fixed that and then were preparing for the last major climb of the day when we continued to descend.  It turned out we didn't have one more climb but the descent wouldn't be easy!  It was on a road that switched from paved to bumpy gravel with mostly switchbacks so going was slower than on normal descents. Needless to say it was a beautiful ride as we went through the pine forest and could see the open rice fields with a hill jutting out in the middle.  Not much traffic so we could enjoy the gravel without too much dust.  One of my favorite things is that all the motorbikes turn off there engines for the descent so it sounds like more bicycles coming by and then you see it's a motorbike.

Pine trees

Random mountain shrine

/View of the road we will be snaking down

John riding ahead

Stopped at a cute little food stall and had delicious rice dumplings in a sauce and one of the ladies tried to convince us to get spring rolls but I was stuffed and couldn't fit anything more in

As soon as we were back near the rice paddies the heat set in and the last 20 km were pretty but I was ready to be off the bike.

Back to the rice paddies

We stopped at the first hotel we saw to look at the room and John said it was dingy and windowless so we went on a hunt for more.  We had plenty of time so we went over the river but that ended up being an industrial area.  Prior to the river there was a hotel but it looked nice so we were hesitant to go to it but we decided the worse they could say was it was too expensive.  As John went to look at it I made friends with the local girls playing in the park.  John came back and with good news...same price as the other but great view and awesome bathroom!  We tried to get my friends to let us take a picture but they we shy and scattered in giggles when we made actions of photos.

All in all probably one of the top 5 days of cycle touring.  Great scenery, lovely people, really can't ask for much else.

5 January 2012 - Phan Rang to Nha Trang - 100 km

After yesterdays awesome riding and people adventure I was in a great mood though a little tired this morning as we headed out for another long day.  As we started we had a massive headwind!  Even with the wind and being on Highway 1 it was a beautiful ride.  Seeing the mountains in the background with people working in the rice paddies and passing ox and pony driven carts it brought a whole new appreciation to Vietnam for me.  Especially as people were intrigued by our riding bikes.  Also, until about 45 km out of Phan Rang Highway 1 was not very busy so was a pleasant ride.

Cham Tower along the way

The wind died down a little after a few hours but was still present  throughout the day.  In Cam Ranh we turned off hoping there was a bridge to the airport...luckily there was.  As we turned onto this road we could see the sea again and there were little fishing houses scattered in the bay with the mountains in the background.

Fishing huts near Cam Ranh

The rest of the ride was on an eery road as the road was built prior to any development.  To the point that there were 2 drink stands for 40 km.  The road was a 4 lane highway with a manicured median but no amenities. It was very interesting to ride on and look at the access roads to the beach with nothing around!  Needless to say very little traffic was on the road and it was a peaceful ride.

Big road intersection to nowhere

Got into Nha Trang and John picked another amazing hotel.  On the top floor (w/ elevator) with an amazing big balcony looking out at the sea and the other side to the city.  Plus it actually has 3 beds.  I have already used the balcony multiple times and we just got here today. 

Anyway, we kind of starved ourselves today due to no amenities on the last road so when we got into town and saw a sign for a cheap cheeseburger and fries we were sold.  Greasy, fatty, calorie ridden is exactly what we needed.