The Longest Pub Crawl...also known as Queen Charlotte Track

71 km of walking in four days

Day 1 - water taxi and 15 km

Mikenna and I took a water taxi to Ship Cove. On the way we passed a pod of dolphins. It was great to see them from far away and then to our delight they came right up to the boat allowing us to get some great pictures and see them jump out of the water.

bottle nosed dolphins

Once we arrived at Ship Cove we had 15 km to the first campsite (Miners Camp). We left our packs with the water taxi to deliver to our campsite, so no extra weight to carry. Since it was sunny and I hadn't seen Mikenna in over a month the majority of the walk went quite fast.

one of the amazing views from the track

About 1 km from the campsite was a resort which the captain unnecessarily mentioned had a bar attached. Since it was prior to when our bags would arrive at the campsite we decided to look at the beer selection. While waiting to order I had an epihany...it was perfect weather for a nice gin and tonic. Conferring with Mikenna she agreed that this would be quite refreshing. Once we were fully refreshed we continued on our way to the campsite.

Day 2 - 9 km


Today would be the easy day of the tramp with a mere 9 km. Due to the need for our packs to be at the wharf by 9 am we reached our destination by noon. Again devilishly there was a resort near the camping site and since it was on the waterfront with comfy chairs we again endulged in a gin and tonic. It was a pleasent day enjoying the sun and leisure as tomorrow would be a long day.

Mikenna ensuring we close the gate

Day 3 - 25 km

Started the day with a couple of steep uphills. We were going strong through lunch. Seeing the 21 km sign was great; not only because we had walked 51 km but that we had half a km left for the day.

Since it was Thanksgiving we decided to switch it up and have a vodka cranberry as our after tramp drink. This was a well deserved drink and both of us almost fell asleep prior to finishing it.

When we set up the tent we were quite tired after the walk and the forecast did not have rain so we lightly attached the fly. In the "middle of the night" (22:30) Mikenna woke up to the stars above her as she realized the fly was three-quarters of the way off. She scrambled to reattach the fly as I searched for my light and finally gave up and blindly helped stake down the fly. Note to self....wind is also a reason to use your fly.


Day 4 - 21 km

Rough day. I knew it would be a tough day and tried to steel myself to that. My feet and legs are not used to walking long distances and they could feel the strain. Plus being used to going by bike leaves a person feel like you walk forever while not getting anywhere.

The last 7 km were really trying as I needed to sit down and rest my sore feet and have a snack but all of the benches were full. I tried to make it to the campsite 3 km out but could not and to Mikenna's surprise sat down in the middle of the track. The best part was that as soon as I sat down Mikenna said that she could see the campsite...and indeed you could. So I got up after a snack and we continued to a longer break near the beach of the campground.

Our timing was perfect for this day as we got to the end point and had enough time to take off our shoes when the water taxi with our packs arrived. We grabbed our packs and walked to where my bike was stored. This added about a half a km and I was definetly happy to get to there house. It was worth the walk as we got a shower, cup of tea, and a bed waiting for us.

While it was quite trying for me I think I will still be doing more tramping in the future....especially if I can hire a pack. Plus as Mikenna predicted as time elapses you forget about the uncomfortableness and just remember the beauty and fun.

the first deadline of my vacation

Mikenna and I set a date for walking the Queen Charlotte Track and I had to make it up to Picton by November 22nd.

16 November 2010 - Christchurch to Greta Valley - 80 km, avg 19.6 km/hr

Started on my way to Picton today. It was a cool morning which turned into a hot day with the road long, straight and no shade. I stopped in Amberley at the Brew Moon Cafe for lunch. As you may suspect this is a brewery. I had the beer sampler and an amazing scallop dish.

Between Amberley and Greta Valley

Sampler - Pale Ale, Brown Ale, IPA, and Stout

Fancy! Scallop with pineapple salsa

After lunch the wind picked up. Since it was a side wind it didn't help me but it kept the temperature to a reasonable level. For my afternoon break I stopped in the only shade I had seen in the last 20 km and had a nice rest. As I get back on my bike I find out I have a flat. With only 10 km left I really didn't want to change it on the side of the road so crossed my figures and hoped that I could limp it to Greta Valley. Thankfully it was a slow leak and could change the tire in the convenience of the campground lounge. Also, since it was so windy the owners allowed me to rent the caravan for the same price of a tent. Score.

I end up changing out my rear tire even though don't think it is ruined but I don't want to change a tube again for a while (hopefully).

17 November 2010 - Greta Valley to Hawkswood - 62 km, 17.7 km/hr

No atms, 60 km, 1 hour weeding, crappy kitchen, possum, rooster, rain, wake start, left journal
In Greta Valley I realized that I left my toothbrush in Christchurch so would need to get another one and stop at the ATM. Well I get into Cheviot and remember to get the toothbrush and ask about the ATM...which ended up being broken. I had only change left in my bag...but figured the campsite would take credit cards or do internet banking or something.

With that I stopped at a cafe. It's fun to see the difference in guy cyclists versus women cyclists. As myself and another cyclist (though driving) both were stopped at this cute cafe with good food, coffee and a little art gallery. I wouldn't find my guy friends in this delightful little place (or not without some prodding).

It's a hot day and by kilometer 55 I'm ready to be off of my bike and enjoying relaxing. When I finally find the correct turnoff (thought it was 2 km prior to where it was well signed) I get in and talk to the lady about a tent site. It turns out it is a women who is wwoofing and that the owner is out but available by phone. I tell her I have 8 dollars in cash or can use credit card or other banking items.

She calls the owner who responds that I can go back the way I came 8 kms (16 km return) and they "might" have an ATM. If I wasn't so tired I thought about just heading out to the next campsite or Kaikoura (20 or 44 km more) but the heat had zapped me. Right before I get to my breaking point she does mention that I could work in exchange (maybe should have started with that?). So I paid my $8 and had to work 1 hour at weeding. Weeding after 60 km is not the most enjoyable task....lesson learned ALWAYS have a secret stash of cash.

Now if this was the end of the story it would have been annoying but deserved. Unfortunately I didn't realize that the facilities I had seen earlier were not for camping patrons but for the cabins. So after I had weeded I was shown into the filthy kitchen with no working fridge and the toilet/shower where you needed heman strength to close the door.

To continue on this delightful experience they had a massive possum problem so I was awoken at 2 am to their screeching (it's quite horrid) which went on for an hour. Luckily at 4 am the roosters started crowing so I wouldn't sleep in!

Also, I realized later that night that I had left my notebook in the game room and didn't have a chance to send a note until after Queen Charlotte which she responded snidily that 12 days had past and it could be anywhere (though she did "look" for it). So I would not recommend the Staging Post near Hawkwood...continue to the campsite by the river where you may actually get sleep.

18 November 2010 Hawkswood to Kaikoura

Hawkswood to Kaikoura was a great ride. The morning was sunny as I went through hills and the Hunderlees. As I moved towards the hills I felt a little like saws as the impending doom of climbing them was coming closer and closer. The hills were not as bad as expected though fresh chip seal is even less fun when going downhill. On one of the breaks I started my Micheal Jackson impression as I didn't put on my gloves and one had magically stuck to my gear.

As I reached the coast I came down into thick fog for 20 km. I rode along the coast with an erry feeling until the last hill into Kaikoura. As I reached the top and started the descent into Kaikoura I came into a sunny day with the mountains and sea beautifully framed. It was a great way to end a day and I was glad to spend a rest day in such beauty.

19 November 2010 Kaikoura

I did very little today as my legs were still recovering. I did manage to get rid of the mind numbing squeal from my back pulley. The "bike mechanic" did not touch my bike but allowed me to use the tools and stand! It was great...especially since he had only been a bike mechanic for three months and needless to say Stella was not going to be left in his care. Which he was fine with because he was the only one working the full sporting goods store.

Other than that I relaxed in the hostels spa (hot tub) while enjoying the view of the mountains.

20 November 2010 Kaikoura to Pedaller's Rest

Leaving Kaikoura after a day of rest was nice. It was partly cloudy in the morning but a nice temperture. I resisted the temptation to stop and buy a crayfish (lobster) from the roadside stands. I did stop at the seal colony...of course right as I got there the Kiwi Experience (imagine a bus load of19 year olds on a booze cruise) arrived 2 minutes later..I shortened my viewing and continued.

Nearing my reststop for the night the rain was chasing me. I got into the cabin/hostel shortly before it started pouring on the tin roof. There really is very few things that sound as plesant as rain on a tin roof. I was the only cyclist staying (Pedaller's Rest) and enjoyed a quite night with a radio and couch.

As I did my exercises with a giant rubber band it slipped off of the door handle and preceeded to hit me straight in the face!! And there were no witnesses of my sillyness...so I texted Mikenna who was having her going away party in Wellington...hence people got to enjoy my talent.

21 November 2010 - Pedaller's Rest to Blenheim - 58 km, 18.1 km/hr

The day started with a misty drizzle. As I was trying to be nice to the car that was behind me on the gravel road from Pedaller's Rest I managed to pedal strike my shin to the point of tears! Not a good way to start a day or to do right before a long hike.

There were a few hills to get through. As I stopped in Seddon a nice older couple from Christchurch offered me a cup of tea. It was a sweet gesture but I was so warm I declined.

A group of the Wellington crowd was in Blenheim working on vineyards so I got to meet up with them. It was fun to see everyone and they got to witness my scaredy-cat ways when I watch scary movies!! I did warn them though.

22 November 2010 - Blenheim to Picton - 28 km, 20.2 km/hr

This was a short day but it seemed long as it was straight and mostly flat...plus I was ready to be in Picton and see Mikenna!

I had arranged with a couple from Warmshowers to pick up and store my bike at the end of the Queen Charlotte track. They were even kind enough to come and pick the bike up from Picton which was great for me.

Once Stella was taken care of I had a short wait until Mikenna got into the city. It was great to see her again and we caught up on what had been going on before spending the rest of the afternoon getting ready for the track the next day.

Second verse same as the first...in reverse

09 November 2010

Today I swam with the worlds smallest dolphin. The hector dolphin is only 1 meter to 1.4 meters long and has a rounded dorsel fin. In other words it is super cute.

The company provides you with a 5 mm wetsuit. So the water is not balmy by any means. They cruise you out until they fine a pod of dolphins who seem friendly (i.e. no calves and not feeding) and then let you into the water. We spent 45 minutes in the water as the dolphins play around you.

Prior to my swim I went out on one of the hostels three speeds. They even had baskets...though theirs were not plastic with pink and purple flowers.

Views near Akaroa

The hostel had three speeds!! Stella was not happy

10 November 2010 - Akaroa to Barry's Bay

I decided to break up the hills on the way back to Christchurch into two days. One day for the four little hills and one day for the big hill. Today I headed over to Barry's Bay where I stayed a delightful hostel called the Halfmoon Cottage.

The great thing about New Zealand is their road names are very informative. Such as loop, crescent, or say Flat Road. Yes on my way to Barry's Bay just prior to the last hill there was a picnic area that I pondered about stopping at for lunch but I decided to just get it over with and have lunch at the hostel. That is until I passed the road just after it that was named "O..... Flat Road". I immediately turned around and stopped at the picnic area for lunch. After lunch I enjoyed the flat road the last 2 km to Barry's Bay and was also rewarded with a good view.

Flat Road

I then continued to French Farm to do a wine tasting but unfortunately the cellar door was closed and I just got in a 5 km ride instead. It was nice because I got to go out minor hills without my packs so could stand up as I went up hills. The little things that you miss when touring but a broken spoke really isn't worth standing.

11 November 2010 - Barry's Bay to Ataahua

Started out the day with a 6 km climb it was ~25 degrees C so I was quite warm as I was also on the east side of the hill. I stopped often but overall the hill seemed easier this time around...it made sense as I realized there was no headwind.

Stella trying to hitch the rest of the way up the hill

Right prior to Hilltop I recieved a friendly honk and wave, which was very nice. It's amazing how those last bits can really wear you as you anticipate the downhill. I learned an important lesson as I stopped in the cafe for lunch...do not stop 200 m from the top of a hill and than eat a big meal. I had to walk the rest of the way up the hill as my stomache cramped from the effort.

I continued on to Little River where I decided to once again get on the bike trail. Just as I was beginning to to really enjoy riding on the trail I hit a sharp rock and got a flat on the rear tire. As I go to take off my wheel I realize that my locking quick release is stuck. A guy riding past stops to help but he can not get it to release either. Luckily when I call up Justin he reminds me of the golden rule of bike mechanics...when all else fails use blunt force. Lifting the back tire and dropping it from a couple inches from the ground I then try the quick release again and like magic I can get my tire off and change it with no further issues.

Stella laying down on the job...needs a new tube STAT

First flat fixed!

Continue stopping at Birdlings Flat and deciding to domain camp at Ataahua.

Birdling Flats

12 November 2010 - Ataahua to Christchurch

The ride today was easy and noneventful.

Don't know what you got till your gone

So I hate seeing all of the bike stuff on facebook or mplsbikelove cause it makes me miss my soon to be freezing cold homeland.

I also completely miss coffee shop/bikeshops!!! Everyone who bikes needs coffee...learn new zealand learn.

Also, I miss the fact that when you say road bike you are NOT talking about carbon but an awesome bike that you can actually use for multiple purposes (not that i wouldn't like a carbon but not the point).

Done with pointless rant.

Big hill, little hill, little hill, little hill, shoot me, little hill, and there

8 November 2010

Today was a rough day. As I started from back into town from staying at the yurt I was not pedalling and going down a 2 percent grade going 37 km/hr. This was the exact opposite direction I would be going as I headed into the day of hills.

The first 8 km were flat and even with the wind were not too difficult. After this point things started to get rough. At kilometer 9 I was proud of myself for being upbeat even though I had to walk my bike quite a bit. Kilometer 10.5 was starting to get tired but still in high spirits as I had 4.5 more km to climb. At kilometer 13.2 I hated everything...I actually caught myself hating the grass...yeah grass what are you looking at.

Watching the clouds blow in as I hate the world

At this point I believed I had 2 more km to go and the wind was slamming into me as I slowly pushed my bike forward. At km 13.3 I was elated to turn a corner and see not only the elevation sign of 476 m at Hilltop but the beautiful bays beyond.

Looking toward Akaroa at Hilltop

Of course my joyfulness was not long lived as I knew there were still four smaller hills to conquer prior to getting to my destination of Akaroa. The 6 km downhill was trying as I needed to keep my bike under 25 km/hr in order to allow myself to brake if needed. I had to pull off multiple times to allow my hand to relax.

By the time I got to the third smaller hill I was knackered. Luckily there was a pullout area that was perfect to sit in the shade and have a snack. The snack was much appreciated as I found out the granola bars I bought tasted horrible!

Me at hill 3

With food in my belly I hyped myself up for the 1.5 hills I needed to finish so I could reward myself with coffee and treat. Bribing yourself truly does wonders on your mood and motivation. Of course the last hill was the worse along with being completely straight so it appears at all times that you are not getting any closer.

Needless to say I made it to Akaroa very proud of myself even though I think I walked 5 km of the 32 kms I went that day.

It's an amazing feeling getting back out there when most of you body isn't in shape and your mind is raising fearful alarms. I'm not the confident rider I once was but it is slowly coming back. Patience is truly a virtue.

The nice thing about riding now is that my negative voice is amazingly quite...almost completely silent. I know that I could easily give up my hopes of bicycle touring and store my bike somewhere but now I feel that I truly have earned these rides. They will be hard, and I'm not going to win any style points but I'm out there doing it and nobody can take that away.

And hoping for smooth sailing

07 November 2010 - Christchurch to Little River (on the way to Akaroa)

So I re-began my bicycle touring today. Started by going to a physio appointment where I was told that things were continuing to improve and then started my tour from there. Scared, exhilarated, anxious, scared, happy, scared were the feelings I felt as I began cycling with my fully loaded bike. This was a flat route...I had picked the route specifically for this reason but I still was not comfortable as I began.

Stella wondering if I'm mad at her as I stop for lunch...notice bionic arm strapped to top

I wondered to myself if I should have written a note to my confid ence in advance of my departure something along the lines of:

"Dear Confidence, If you would be so kind as to return prior to 7 November I would be most grateful. I currently do not want to go long distances with all of my gear but think your presence would be very helpful in relieving this feeling. Thanks in advance. xoxo Carissa"

Unfortunately I did not think of this until after I was biking so it had no idea that I missed it so much.

Anyway, slowly as the km continued to pile on biking started to feel enjoyable. When after 25 km I could look around while pedaling I remembered why I love my bike and why I'm crazy enough not to give it up (though it's not really a choice anyone since I am addicted). Of the 67 km I decided to try 14 km on the gravel Little River Rail Trail. This was a lot of fun and the five other bikers I met were all women (pretty nifty).

This was the start of the Little River Trail...decided to wait 7 km to get on it...sheep scare me

Little River Trail 10 km from start

Prior to the campground where I was planning on spending the night was the accommodation I had scheduled to stay at on the way back to Christchurch. So I stopped in an get to stay in a Yurt! Yeah Yurt!

The yurt

Inside of yurt

Tomorrow will be a shorter day but more challenging as there is a big hill followed by 4 smaller hills prior to Akaroa.

Nelso/Picton/Golden Bay

Early October to Mid October

Stayed a day in Picton prior to heading to Nelson. Stacie, Max, Darren and I ended up going on a bike ride. Darren was quite a trouper since his bike was the worst out of theirs...he could only go in one gear. We made it a good 8 or 9 km return. It was fun to ride with people, even if they maybe didn't have the best of time.

Evening near the beach in Nelson

Public art on bridge rail...I really liked that it was in braille

My goal for arriving in the South Island was to be able to attend some of the first annual Nelson Bicycle Festival. Mostly because they had a whole program of social bike rides to help me up my miles and confidence.

I attended one of the social rides shortly after arriving in Nelson, andwas introduced to the rail to trail network. Also, I was provided with a name of a WWOOF couple who also were into cycling. Since my physio therapist wanted to see me again I would have to stay in Nelson for an additional week. Not too hard to do as it is the sunshine capital of NZ. Also, it allowed me to watch the Crit Race (though participation was low) and introduce it to a friend.

Low clearance...I rode my bike under this an hour before

Michelle and I planned to go up to Golden Bay and rented a car for the weekend. The road there was incredibly windy and driving on the left made it even more interesting. We made it up and over and had two jammed packed days of tramps and sights. Including a natural limestone labryinth!

We ventured out on a one lane 11 km long gravel road to see Harwoods hole and the beech tree forest that surrounded it. Along with heading to farwell spit...where we couldn't find the lookout until we peeked around a corner. (More pictures to come at a later date)

PuPu springs...clearest fresh water springs in the world

Labryinth in Golden Bay...I may never get out

Try Try Again

04 November 2010

Today is what I would call my first real hard day of riding since my accident. Rode 22 Km total with a 2 km "walk". The walk was a mtb/walking path that my current setup was most definitely not going to handle...not only the incorrect gear ratio but the skinny tires would have been flat at the end.

So downhills are indeed still a problem and due to my bike not being compatible with cantilever brakes I really have to just live with going no more than 25 km/hr downhill. Which on the plus side forces me to do my exercises, as well as I'm still not confident enough to go full on down a hill (nor should I be as my grip strength is still slightly lacking).

Sheep and view of Christchurch from Summit Road

The weather was a bit warm for my liking at 22 degrees Celsius while riding but was sunny and truly gorgoues as I walked around Lyttleton.

After the downhill section I need to look at the length of downhill to Akarua to see if I need to catch a lift the last part of this route. My plan is to start touring again on in four days after my second physio appointment in Christchurch. It's interesting because not only am I touring the country but also the physio departments *smile*. From my point of view this is great as I get everyones best techniques to help me improve...though it would be nice to have a little consistancy.

In general I'm tired of having to worry about my arm and limit my activities. Though it's hard to be too disappointed as I now can bike and Christchurch is a nice flat city with plenty of bike infrastructure to keep me occupied. Of course there is the fact of aftershocks...which after awhile you forget what they are since I haven't had to deal with them for the last month. It's very interesting to see the structural damage to brick buildings and when riding to see the cracks that resulted from the original earthquake.

03 November 2010

Met a short term bicycle tourist (Stuart) and another traveler (Ash) who has done a couple of bike tours before so we all went out for a ride today. In the morning I had my physio appointment so everyone had to wait until I got back.

We started towards Bottle Lake Forest Park a nice 13 km flat ride. At the park Stuart had to head back as he was catching a flight later that day. Ash and I continued to the park...which was just a pine plantation with walking, mtb, and horse paths in it. So we did 12 km of offroad riding...mostly pretty calm but a few places it got a little interesting witht the wrist. We than had the pleasure of most of the next 15 km being into the wind! fun times