Whistler - Day 1

June 14 - Whistler

Today was my first day of downhill mtbing. I was nervous going out as downhill riding in general has not been the fun it was prior to breaking my arm. Went in and got all geared up and wait for my lesson/guided tour to begin. As it gets closer to leaving time it becomes clear that it will only be me with the guide which is super great since then I pretty much get a personalized session. The lesson was only three runs with the ability to ride more alone if I wanted.

The first run was a little hairy as I'm really not good at mtbing and then add going down hill and speed equals scary. No crashes just really slow as I don't trust myself or bike. For me the hardest part is remembering the bike can handle all of those bumps...also it's hard to override your brain when it wants to brake but you should flow through things.

The second run was better. Definitely nice to do part of the run over again, it is way more fun when you know what is coming up next.

Third run we went up on a medium hard run since I had done all of the easy runs. It was nice to get an introduction to all new tracks so if I would continue on that day I would be familiar with some. By this time it was getting a little later so there were tons of bikers and most of them were very good (as in professionals). This was fun to watch when they were ahead or on a different track but nervewracking when you could hear them behind you...specially cause I'm not as good at knowing the yield rules (always to right or where makes sense...not to mention that I moved over so people could pass on my right...whoopsi).

Needless to say as much as I would've liked to keep going I knew that I would be riding the next day and would be horribly sore if I did an all-dayer today. So I went to shower, grab some food and chill out for the rest of the day. Also, I switched my day for tomorrow from all day alone to half day lesson...figured this would give me all the time I actually needed out there but would be more fun and maybe meet some people to hang out with at game 7 of Stanley cup.

Seattle and up to Whistler

June 8th to 12th- Seattle

Got a ride to Seattle with the couple that took me in last night. They happened to be heading up to Bellingham so could drop me off on the way.

It was suppose to rain the next three days and I really was not caring at the l

ast bit of the ride cause I heard it isn't that great (if you go inland) and I just wanted to se

e my brother and be able to relax for a bit.

It was great to be back in Seattle as it's one of my favorite cities and I have plenty of favorite places to stop at. Plus catching up with Nate was good. The first few days we really didn't get up to much but it was great that way and still had great food (such as the crab Nate cooked). We did end up going out to Bainbridge Island which was fun. Had an

amazing meal out there at the Public House.

Giant Burrito with tamales in the background

Nate on ferry to Bainbridge Island

Manhole made planter

Made a stop by the Saloon...actually took a couple of days before we went down there which was not the norm but fun to see people. Also, Anthony had a bbq which was fun to see all of the Saloon in a different venue.

June 13th - Whistler

Drove up to Whistler today. The drive was beautiful but there were scattered showers which coincided with all of the scenic lookouts.

It is nice to be ending my travels with an actual vacation. It is the first time I have stayed in a hotel for multiple days on the whole trip and feels quite luxurious.

Once I got in it was time for the 6th game of the Stanley cup finals which would've been better not to watch...kinda glad I wasn't feeling like going to the bar to watch cause it was sad. Excited for tomorrow and mountain biking.

Mill Creek Campground to Nehalem Bay

May 30th - Mill Creek to Harris Beach - 40 miles

Rained again last night but wasn't too bad in the morning. Since I knew I had to climb the over 2 miles I had descended yesterday I started early as it was suppose to be a nice day.

The hill out of the campsite was actually not that bad. Partly because after that hill it was a long descent into Crescent City where it continued to appear as a downhill even when I knew it was not.

In all the ride was slightly scenic but enjoyable due to having shoulders most of the time on Highway 101 and not having to work as hard as the last couple of days.

Entered Oregon! Stopped in Brookings for food and Internet for a few hours. Of course as I came out and started on my way to camp it was beginning to rain. I started to rush to the campsite when I had to immediately turn back to shelter to change a flat tire.

By the time I changed my flat and chatted with a fellow who had done some touring and was originally from Minnesota the rain was starting to pick up. Luckily the campsite was just out of town and I set up quickly as it began to pour. One nice thing about Oregon is that the showers are free at the campsites!

Chris, the fellow tourist heading north, arrived in much the same fashion. He was heading to Harris Beach for a family reunion and his aunts and uncles were already there. As such, he invited me to hang out with them in the dry of their yurt and trailer. It was an amazing offer as the rain continued it's deluge into the night. I was also invited for dinner of steak, salad, and corn...it was amazing. Chris and I both ate like ravenous lions as our meals had consisted of canned soup and tuna for the last week.

Chris's tent was surrounded by a moat by the end of the night which I assumed he did on purpose to protect from attacks.

May 31st - Rest Day

Chris's family had invited me to hang out with them if I decided to have a rest day. When I woke up I looked out and it was a great blue sky day. As I got out of my tent ready to change and get going I saw Chris coming back to his tent. It turns out that the blue sky above the tent was an island surrounded by mean looking clouds in all other directions. I went out to the beach lookout to see for myself the impending doom.

Needless to say I still held out hope that it would get nice by 9. Soon the hour came and it was clear that the weather was holding for awhile. The upside of this was that Chris had a yurt that night with an empty bunk and I had been invited to join for another amazing sounding dinner.

When Chris's mom arrived she brought the sun and the rest of the afternoon and evening were amazingly beautiful. The dinner of smoked ribs, grilled salmon, potato salad, cabbage salad and cake was absolutely delightful.

June 1st - Harris Beach to Humbug State Park - 50 miles

Got up and had coffee with Chris's family prior to heading out for the day.

My legs much appreciated the rest day and were actually not too resistant to cycling. It probably helped that the sky was mostly clear and the hills were long but not horribly steep.

Following the coastline I got to take in the views of sea stacks to the left and wildflower covered hills to the right.

It was also nice to have a shoulder on 95% of the road today.

June 2 - Humbug Mountain to Sunset Bay - 60 miles

Once again there was rain in the morning that stopped by 9:00. I headed out with a nice tailwind and patches of blue to usher me on. The route began by following the beach prior to heading inland to forests.

Went through Bandon which was a cute town and had a nice library to catch up on emails. Sad but nice to get online every few days....specially as I'm trying to plan my arrival back in Minneapolis. This includes talking with my boss to sort out the job and with friends to ensure I have a place to live.

Sunset Bay is a beautiful little bay that made me very glad that I was not suckered into staying at the RVtastic county campground a mile closer to town.

Hoping that I can keep up the miles I've been doing as it will allow me to cycle to Seattle. We'll have to see what the weather throws at me.

June 3 - Sunset Bay to Jessie M Honeyman - 55 miles

Today was a great day. First, it was suppose to rain today...all day and I woke up to clear skys. Got up early and headed out with the idea that I might end up at the next campsite if the weather stayed so nice.

Saw the bay in the morning light and was tempted to stop to inspect the tidepools but thought I should keep going in case that rain showed up.

Shortly I was in North Bend where I crossed a beautiful steel bridge (yep I am an engineer).

Continuing on I started to see the dunes that were much talked about in all the books/pamphlets I was reading.

To add excitement into my day I almost ran over a baby rattlesnake. Luckily there were no cars behind me so I could swerve and miss it.

After that I continued through the forest and as I climbed one of the hills was treated with seeing more hills to my right with lakes down below. The lakes slowly became closer and soon I was riding right next to them.

As the weather held all day I decided to stop at the Honeyman campground because it had a lake and I actually was tempted to go for a swim. It was a very interesting lake as we were miles from the ocean but the sand dunes met the pine surrounded lake. It meant that I got to sit on a soft sand beach while watching the water lap against the bank. The wind kept the day cool and I decided I would wait for my swim for another day.

Walking from the lake was a rhododendron lined path. It was pleasant to walk through the pretty pink of the tree lined path.

June 4th - Jessie M Honeymoon to South Beach - 52 miles

Today was an amazing day. A guy heading south said that today would be beautiful and he was completely correct. It started through more forest and sand dunes prior to heading over a cute bridge into Florence. I stopped at a botanical 'garden' which was a state park for pitcher plants. The tour book I have suggested it and said it was great...which I found hard to believe (I'd seen pitcher plants before). They were right it was amazing to see all these carnivorous plants.

After a climb I headed down the descent in the sun seeing the Heceta lighthouse until going through a tunnel. This was a picture perfect sight...and I would have stopped if there were any pullouts on my side of the road.

Continuing on I stopped at Strawberry Hill for my lunch. Where I could here the sea lions below on the rocks. As I was about to leave a guy came up from the beach and asked if we had seen the whales. He pointed them out to the group on the lookout so I at last saw the migrating whales! I was truly excited.

After stopping in Waldport for a bit I got back on the road and shortly Jim and Sarah caught up to me. They were headed to the Rogue Brewery for a tour and needed to make it by 3:00. So we got into a paceline against the ever increasing wind and were on our way. We got there in time for the brewery tour and then a distillery tour.

Then it was camper appreciation so the campsites were free so I got a real campsite instead of a hiker/biker (which in this location was an upgrade). Also, as I got into my spot the neighbors were setting out for the beach. I was promptly invited for dinner when they BBQ'd later and the mom brought me over a Powerade "since I must be thirsty". Pretty much an amazing day!!!

June 5th - South Beach to Devils Lake - 30 miles

This morning did not start as expected. I slept in as I had a short day and was planning on going to a bike shop that had laundry and cyclist lounge. As the book I had told me I needed to go through town to get to the bike shop and stores I did just that. Unfortunately I didn't realize I passed the bike shop until a few miles passed and didn't want to go back.

I did go to a grocery store though even that was difficult as I got called out to move my bike so five shopping carts could be put in there place...needless to say I went to the store across the street to purchase my food.

The ride itself was a good one. Took a short ride out to the Devil's punchbowl and then climbed my way to the lookout prior to being fooled into thinking I was at the top it was a nice view. I then continued up a very steep grade the last 1/4 mile. This is why northbound and southbound routes should not be the same!!

Got into Lincoln City in plenty of time to enjoy the beach as well as the lake. One was hectic while the other was quite serene. Then went out for a beer with Nelson a local cycle tourist just out for 4 days. He introduced me to ridewithgps.com which allowed me to choose the shorter route in Washington without fear of a crazy steep long hill.

June 6th - Devils Lake to Nehalem Bay - 75 miles

Started out breakfasting with Nelson, Maryanne and her friend. The day was gray and misted off and on. As I headed out I decided if the weather kept up like this that I would skip two of the three capes on the Three Capes Scenic Route.

It was about 15 miles before I headed off Highway 101 and towards Pacific City. Once I had turned off the highway it was a pretty view and easy riding with a couple of bigger hills. Stopped at Pacific City for lunch at the beach next to a brewery...I was very sad not to go in but knew I still had 40 miles to go and was making good time.

Once back on Highway 101 it still was a nice ride other than the pasture land around Tillamook. After Tillamook, bays were in sight as well as sloughs.

Sadly the highlight of the day was not the scenery but the surprise Dairy Queen in Garibaldi! I had given myself strict rules of not going to DQ unless it was afternoon or anytime on a sunny day...which up until this point I had not met the criteria.

Getting into camp today there were 3 cousins and a dad all touring together. It was fun to chat with them and find out about Washington and how it will go.

Manchester Park to Mill Creek Campground

May 24th - Manchester Park to MacKerricher Park - 43 miles

Today started off sunny and crisp. As I got back to the highway one of the imposing vultures was warming itself on a telephone pole, needless to say it did not reduce my apprehension.

When I reached the highway and turn I was encouraged when I did not feel wind...though it was early so this was not a complete surprise. As I continued along the coast and through forest the weather was still calm. Reaching my "lunch" break two hours into the ride and two thirds the way through my planned day I was excited to have such a wonderful day of riding.

Continuing on to Mendocino I took a couple hours to look through the cute little down and enjoy a delicious...and hot mocha.

Getting back to the road it was STILL calm...I couldn't not believe my luck and it even seemed that there was a tailwind! Of course nothing can be perfect and I got a flat tire in Fort Bragg but even that was entertaining as a man stopped on his bike offering his help. Even after I said I had everything he remained...at first I was confused but soon realized he was ensuring I got back up and running prior to him leaving. It was a kind gesture and I appreciated the sentiment as I'm sure he had better places to be.

Continued on an old logging road along the beach to the campsite where I met a couple of bikers and one hiker.

May 25th - MacKerricher Park to Stanley Hickey Park - 43 miles

It was suppose to rain all day today and as such I was debating if I should cycle or take a rest day since the park was very beautiful and I really didn't see much of it the night before. The biggest incentive for heading out into the rain was that I would have a tailwind and had to climb two big hills today.

I was just getting into the idea of not cycling when the sky had the nerve of clearing up on me!

Now I had no reason not to head out into the party sunny, tailwinded day. So I set off. The first 20 miles were similar as the rest of coastal California, beautiful but slightly more so now that the wind was at my back.

The next 23 miles was not as much fun. The beauty was still there but it was harder for me to recognize as I climbed a 2 mile and then 10 mile hill! I realized why knee warmers were so great as I descended each hill. The first descent was great, a truly fun experience that almost made up for the steep ascent.

The second descent was not as rewarding as about 1 mile away from the summit it began a light rain. Just enough rain to strike terror into a cyclist...the type of rain that brings the oil out of the pavement but not enough to wash it away. Luckily the road wasn't too slick and I finished the 4 miles of descent frozen but in one piece.

Between the two hills I also had the interesting experience of riding under a powerline that had a tree fall on it. There was traffic control to allow us through but I still felt the need to pedal as fast as possible.

I would highly recommend the shop across from the campsite as it has a wide variety of almost everything. For being in such an out of the way place it had everything from organic food to guide books (an impressive selection).

May 26th - Standish Hickey to Burlington Campground - 46 miles

The ride today started out tough as my legs were in no mood to cycle. I would've made it a rest day but there were a few creepy transient guys staying at the hike/bike campsite and all the cyclists were leaving so decided to held to the next campground.

Most of the ride followed a pretty blue river and right before Garberville I entered a pretty valley. Once on Avenue of the Giants redwoods lined the roadway and it was a pleasant ride as I was dwarfed by the trees. Also, it was great to see the different wildflowers adding color to the greens and browns with splashes of purple, yellow, and blue.

Made it to camp early enough and with enough energy (after the first 20 miles it was mostly a gentle downhill or flat) do a walk through parts of the forest.

May 27, 2011 - Burlington Campsite to Trinidad - 23 miles

Had a short day of riding today followed by a bus trip. The first 12 or so miles were still through the Avenue of the Giants with the northern section of this roadway even more impressive than the southern section. Riding through a redwood forest after a night rain is a good way to start off the day. The next 6 miles was still off the beaten path and followed a river for a section.

The last 5 miles confirmed my decision to take a bus from Scotia to Trinidad. After the relaxation of the Avenue of the Giants I was flung onto a freeway section of Highway 101. No serenity in this riding.

Since it was raining in the morning I got a later started then I wanted and as such had three hours to kill in Scotia. Luckily the weather had changed and I sat out of the wind basking in the sunshine that had alluded me for the last two days.

Arrived in Trinidad and headed over to a Warmshowers host who had dinner in the oven. We both were feeling pretty low energy so after a nice chat we headed off to bed.

May 28th - Trinidad to Prairie Creek Park/Elk Prairie campsite - 25 miles

Woke up after a wonderful nights sleep refreshed and dry! Then received a breakfast of homemade scones and fresh french press coffee. It felt quite luxurious after the last eight days of cold instant oatmeal and water. She also suggested stopping at the market in Trinidad for food as it had a good selection...I was glad I did.

Looked like the weather might clear up but was sprinkling as I headed out. Followed the coast for the first few miles still hoping that I might see whales as it is migration season...still no luck. Highway 101 welcomed me back as it started to rain. Spent the last 5 miles riding in the rain but just as I was looking for a campsite it started to pour! Good thing I'm quick on setting up the tent.

After a shower and a look around the visit center the weather seemed to stabilize. I went for a two hour walk among the old growth redwoods. The redwood forests just continue to get more impressive! It actually became sunny when I was on my walk as well. Also, the wild elk were relaxing in the field when I got out of the forest.

Later in the night a group of Canadians from Manitoba rolled in. They were a great group and reminded me of my bike friends back in Minneapolis.

May 29th - Elk Prairie Campsite to Mill Creek Campsite - 31 miles

Woke up to a brisk morning with not a cloud in the sky. Started out through the redwood forest I had walked through yesterday and enjoyed the tranquility.

Once I got back on Highway 101 it was nice for a short while prior to the Crescent City hill starting. When the hill started the highway narrow to allow me to fight for space between the cliff and the cars zooming by. I had heard a lot of things about the Legget Hill but hadn't heard too much about this hill. For me this was much worse a hill! Not only did it keep going but the shoulder appeared and disappeared like a Houdini trick and in many places there were two lanes of traffic. Also, this hill was one of those where it has three or for downhills before it climbs again which is always disheartening.

To end the day I rode the 3 miles down a quite steep road to Mill Creek Campsite. There is nothing to put dread into a cyclists heart as when they chose to descend a giant hill and will have to climb it first thing in the morning. As it is the next campground is 40 miles away so the three mile climb is necessary.

Samuel P Taylor Park to Manchester Park, CA

May 21st - Samuel P Taylor to Bodega Dunes - 43 miles

Started through the redwoods. Had a heck of a day as I had a headwind the whole day. Really am out of shape for wind and rolling hills. The guy I met last night said I could get past Bodega but no way was that happening...I'm going to blame it on the wind.

He also mentioned doing "appreciations" to help get through the worst moods on the bike. When in a funk you start appreciating things (i.e. I appreciate the grass, I appreciate the pavement, etc). Really glad he mentioned it as I used it a lot today! Normally it would sound too corny and I wouldn't do it but when your mind is focusing on the negative it really helps switch your way of thinking and make things bearable and even enjoyable again.

May be taking the next couple of days slowly to keep the attitude positive. We'll see what the wind throws at me.

May 22, 2011 - Bodega Dunes to Woodville campground - 29 miles

Another winding day. Last night met an older tourist (70's) also going north. He's gone 700 miles so far. Encouraging in more than one way. It's nice to see that I can keep doing this into old age.

Today made me realize that the likelihood of me making it all the way to Vancouver was growing slim. The scenery was beautiful and I could understand where heading south would be lovely. It was still a nice day of riding but wore me out as it was quite hilly. I had to laugh when I was super excited for a switchbacking hill in order to get out of the wind! Goes to show that everything is about perception.

Met up with the other cyclist in time for lunch prior to heading the last few miles to the campgrounds. We were staying at separate grounds as there was one another 5 miles up the road.

I've reconciled my disappointment of not finishing the route but it will be here next time for me to finish. Of course I could get so in shape that I make up the lost miles! Still there's something about finishing a hard day of riding that makes me realize I've done something. Luckily so far it's been sunny which always helps (knock on wood).

May 23, 2011 - Woodville campsite to Mancester campsite - 40 miles

Today the wind did not start until 10:00! I was super excited and the views were great as well. Followed the coast for the morning interspersed with forest riding.

Had less then 10 miles left when the wind really started to pick up. At this point there were also a couple of hills. As I crested the second one I was looking down at the ocean and a small plain prior to the hills starting again, very beautiful.

Along the way I saw vultures snacking on an unlucky raccoon. The first time I had seen them up close....truthfully they are quite a large bird to be only a few feet away from!

Also, there was a pretty beach near the campsite that had flowering sand dunes and sand cliffs on a large portion of the dune so getting down to the beach was quite interesting. Watching the ocean here it is in such turmoil. The Pacific I had gotten used to seems so well behaved in comparison. I've been told it's because of the angle of the land and the seabed topography but it's interesting to see the difference.

The interesting thing with this trip is that I miscalculated how much I would be missing my friends and family! When I was overseas there was no way to get home and even phone calls were an exorbitant price. Partly due to this my homesickness/loneliness wasn't that great. On this trip I could call friends/family but I'm staying at campsites with no electricity so I have to conserve my phone time. Since I'm so close and actually am able to talk to them this self-imposed exile is difficult to ignore. It took me completely by surprise since I really didn't have this problem when in New Zealand. Guess it will just make the homecoming even better.

Off again - West Coast USA

May 20th

After resting and running errands in San Francisco it is finally time to get back on the bike and continue on this journey.

I have sent home a good amount of stuff but have also acquired an epic novel and netbook.

May 20, 2011 - San Francisco to Samuel P. Taylor State Park

Today was a day of learning and relearning lessons.

Lessons of the day:

First lesson, AAA does not sell maps to nonmembers...this was mind boggling to me.

Second lesson, waiting 15 minutes for the book store to open to purchase maps is worth it....otherwise a nice 6 mile warm up will ensue (with 3 miles of climbing the hill you just decended.

Third lesson, do not trust the bike route signs they will disappear randomly or have the smallest directional sign available.

Fourth lesson, hiker/biker sites are awesome...for $5 - $10 you get a semi-private camp site located next to other cyclists.

Relearning lessons - slowly but surely

Lesson one, do not believe someone when they say there is only one hill. While technically this may be true if that hill is 4 to 6 miles in length it feels like more.

Lesson two, do not drink beer mid-day. It is a law of physics that a hill will magically appear after such consumption and riding will become near unbearable as you try not to retch. This lesson only applies to touring and/or routes that one is unfamilar with.

Lesson three, the world really is better on a bike.

The last miles had me riding through giant redwoods. Prior to setting up camp among them.

Until next time

Will be heading back to the USA in less than a week and I am not ready!

Looking forward to cycling from San Francisco to Vancouver but nervous about switching back to the right hand side of the road.

Have had a great time here and will miss a lot of things.