Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

09 December 2011 – Siem Reap to Battambang - “Ferry”

Took the long boat ride to Battambang as I wanted to see the floating villages, the bird life (ride goes through a bird sanctuary), and heard that it was fun. To begin the day we had to be ready by 6:30 to get transported down to the ferry. A van packed full of people showed up. I couldn't see where we were going to fit but as I had spent the last few days marveling at the Cambodians ability to transport large quantities of stuff in small vehicles I knew it would happen.

It was great to get to go across the large lake prior to heading up a river surrounded by marsh. It would be amazing to see this river in the middle of the dry season when it goes to a small channel. I saw a kingfischer, eagle, and many different types of cranes and other waterfowl. It was great to see the marshland teeming with life.

The floating villages where so interesting. The canoes that they use are so beautiful and functional. Of course now a lot of them have motors as well but in the villages themselves they seemed to just paddle. I love seeing places that are close to the opposite way that I grew up. Think about all the amazing things that they know how to do because it's what they have always done!

Floating village

At one point I was watching the world pass me by and Kimya Dawson's “Rollercoaster” came on my ipod and it made my heart smile.

10 December 2011- Battambang to Pursat – 110 km

Today started with free bananas from the guesthouse then off to a cafe for a couple of meat filled baguettes and ice coffee.

Then headed along the flat highway again. Keeping an eye on traffic, trying to spot the owner of the yelled “Hello”, and gawking at the insane amount of things that can be stacked in a vehicle make the day pass by quickly.

Stopped at a restaurant owned by a Thai family. Had a good fried rice and onion soup. Then confirmed that the peepee dance is an international sign for bathroom if words fail. This resulted in quite a bit of laughter from the owners as they realized what I was asking.

That is until about 2 o'clock which appears to be when the sun is the hottest here...and you are hungary...and your miming food needs improvement...but then what do we spot...true prawn crackers!! Deepfried prawny goodness!

Prawn Crackers

Got into Pursat got clean and headed out for dinner. As we left the building there was another cyclist across the road eyeing up the guesthouse debating if he would stay here or not. We went and had a chat told him it was a decent place.

We had three courses for dinner! Started with meat skewers with cucumber salad, went on to curry noodles, and finished with a pumpkin tapioca pudding....delicious.

11 December 2011 – Pursat to Kompang Chhang – Bamboo train + 66 km

Today was one of those days where I wonder how I get to do these amazing things. We took the Bamboo Railway which is currently the only way to use the rail lines in Cambodia. This is suppose to be changing as they upgrade the tracks (which I saw them replacing from Poipet to Sisaphon).

Anyway this is an unique way to travel and is one more example of the resilience of the Cambodians. We negotiated a price prior to waiting for the “scheduled” departure. After watching 4 or 5 “trains” go by it was time to place the two trucks (wheelsets) on the track before placing the rickety wood platform on top.

Then start the engine and use a bamboo stick to moderate speed. Off we went, two loaded bikes, one scooter, a half dozen of different jugs of pickled vegetables and fish, and at least a dozen people. Looking forward I could see the track meander this way and that and see where each welded section ended.

When a train comes from the other direction the train with less cargo has to disassemble their train and reassemble it once the other train has past.  We lost once and as such had to take everything off and then reload.

The train that made us have to rebuild our train

Disassembling the train

Me on the second bamboo train as we wait for traffic in front of us

On top of the experience of getting to ride this amazing transport method it also meant we got to see areas of the country that few foreigners see. Where we got off the village was 30 km from the highway. Needless to say most people we past gave us a look of “Where did YOU come from?”

12 December 2011 - Kompang Chhang to Phnom Penh - 100 km

Felt crappy today but wanted to get to Phnom Penh as tomorrow is a rest day.  Made good time but didn't really see anything and spent all of my time in the dark hotel room.