Hanoi to Mai Chau

26 January 2012 - Hanoi to Hoa Binh – 65 km

Started solo touring again today. After taking a couple scenic detours of Hanoi and finally getting some help from a couple of military guys I was on my way.

I forgot how much fun it is to go at your own pace! Not to mention that I feel like I've started an adventure. I liked touring with someone but it is so easy. Nothing is really ever a challenge. Of course today was a good day so we'll see how I feel when I have a really crappy day. :O)

The day was overcast but luckily it never lead to full on rain just mist. About 40 km into the ride I came across a cyclist going the other way from Austria. After chatting for a bit I got cold so headed on my way. Shortly afterward I started into the karst landscape which had peak out a couple of times earlier in the day.

Mabel with Communist billboards

Karst out of the fields

Gardens in Hoa Binh

Hmm...what is it?

Delicious! Little bit pear, mangosteen, and something I can't put my finger on

Stopped for a coffee where the old lady shop owner stoke the portable fire for me. She tried to have a chat with me but gave up after a while and we just enjoyed the heat from the fire.

Got into Hoa Binh by midafternoon where I found a guesthouse. Wandered around town a bit. I love how excited children get when they see me walking. They look once...then again...then normally a shrill scream or FALANG or HELLO is uttered with accompanying finger pointing. It makes me laugh everytime.

The other thing I really like about Vietnam is that the older generation is just as amused at seeing me on a bicycle. Normally older men but women as well will yell “Hello” and wave as I pass with a somewhat bewildered look on their face.

Found out that most guesthouses have HBO and Star Movie channel so spent a good portion of the evening watching movies.

27 January 2012 - Hoa Binh to Mai Chau - 65 km 

Today started off good though a little slow as I remember how hard it is to get out of bed when the temperature is low.

Got breakfast prior to starting the day.  Realized that what I thought was sugar in my soup is actually MSG.  Took me awhile but I catch on.

The landscape was pretty from the start as I climbed into the mountains and saw the sugar cane growing with the mountains behind.  I also saw my first terraced rice paddies today.  

Then at about km 40  a guy waved me in for tea with him, his wife and three kids.  We chatted and then as I was ready to leave he said "How bout you stay here tonight? Mai Chau tomorrow.  Show you inside village today."  I thought about it and decided that it would be fun.

We went down a muddy track to the village with great views along the way.  First stop was his sisters where we had tea and then they started pouring rice wine.  I had to firmly say no more but still some came anyway.  Then she served up little whole fish with bamboo, sticky rice, and kohlrabi salad w/ pork fat.

After this we went to visit his brother where we had a cup of tea.  I was starting to feel a little uneasy about the situation...not really for any reason other than it was a feeling.  I've learned that when this feeling occurs around men it is best to exit.  Since it was only 3:00 pm I knew I should be able to climb the rest of the hill and due the downhill arriving in Mai Chau just before dark. 

When we got back to his hut I told him I better be going and packed up the bike.  Of course he then asked for  "Happy New Year money".  I gave him a bill just to be gone and headed on my way.

He came with his scooter to try help me up the hill but I was too scared of crashing to let him.  He said goodbye and I had 6 km of climbing to do.  

Hills with sugarcane fields

Looking down at the village I visited

Stilt houses

Me being shown around the kitchen of the sister of my guide

Finally a picture of a water buffalo

View from my window in Mai Chau

*Note mom and faux mom's might not want to read the next paragraph* 

I will say that this 6 km of climbing was possibly the scariest of my life.  Now that everything worked out fine it really wasn't dramatic.  At the time the fog was so thick that I could see 10 meters in front of myself and I wasn't exactly sure that I knew when the climb should be done and I was losing sunlight. Not to mention because my creep meter had went off I was envisioning the guy stalking me and waiting to pounce (this was NOT going to happen he had just wanted to make some extra cash and was really nice I just had thought he invited me in out of kindness).  This is when I start scolding myself for doing something that could have gotten me into trouble.  Note to self:  Only accept offers from kindly old ladies. ;)

As it was my calculations on how far I had left were correct and I was happy to come up to the breeze clearing the fog which is a telltale sign that I'm at the top of the hill.  I got  my head out of near panic zone and enjoyed the rest of the ride.  The view from the hill was amazing.  It was cloudy but not foggy so I could look out on the mountains and rice paddies.  Since I still had 20 km to go and didn't really believe the book that said it was all down hill I didn't stop to take pictures as I didn't want to lose the light.  The downhill was brilliant and quick.  I would have had plenty of time to stop.  Then turned off Highway 6 to continue to Mai Chau, bittersweet this was downhill.  I will be cycling back that way tomorrow morning.

The valley is beautiful and I got in as everyone from the fields was walking home.  It was a great finish to a great day.