Sunday, January 22, 2012

Hoi An to Hue

12 January 2012 - Danang - 30 km

Today it was raining when we started.  We were hoping to get to Lang Co but had decided to wait until lunch and decide where to stop.  We stopped 15 km into the ride to go to Marble Mountains which were 5 mounts in the middle of the plains.  It was impressive to ride towards them.  Wandered through the pagodas and caves of the mount.  One cave you continue through a person size hole to give a view of the surrounds...of course with the clouds it wasn't as impressive as on a sunny day.

3 of the other Marble mountains

looking out at the sea

This made me chuckle


By the time we got to Danang we still thought we could make it to Lang Co.  I enjoyed riding next to the beach even though it was rainy...the ocean is just reassuring to me.  As we got to the north part of the beach I realized that I wouldn't make it to Lang Co as my shoes were full of water and we would be climbing 600 meters and descending...plus I already was having lung issues.  So just 30 km into the day we found refuge in a hotel with food next door.

That night the hotpot we had and beers were super good and cheap!  Total cost was under 5 bucks for 2 people!  Nice score.

13 January 2012 - Hue - 115 km

John and I set off not knowing how far we would go today.  We hoped Hue but didn't know if this was actually going to happen due to having a couple of passes to go over and the weather.

Shortly after we started the first climb of the day began.  As we started up we saw an awesome set up of cycle tourists making there way down.  It was a tandem with a recumbent in front and a regular cycle in back with a trailer.  Thought it was great because both people could see plus it looked like an epic setup.

About the time we were ready for a sugary drink we came across a stall with the cutest puppies!  Two little puppers of absolute adorableness and the old lady owner chewing on her betel leaf was just as adorable.

Continuing on our climb the weather was overcast but we still got good views of the bays below.  Then there was a sign warning of fog.  They were not kidding! We slowly continued the climb through thick fog barely able to see 50 feet in front of us.  Turning a corner we mounted the last hill out of the fog and saw the Amercian Bunker on the top of the pass.

The winding path down was an easy descent. I saw John slowing on a curve and wondered why. When I turned the corner I saw goats and their kids crossing the roadway.  Don't see that everyday.  Then continued down to Lang Co for lunch.

As we left town we were accompanied by a boy who was having fun keeping up with us on his one speed.  I tried to show him how to draft but when he got in between John and I he thought it was too easy so got out of line to speed ahead.

There were a couple more small passes to go up and once we got over these the drizzle started in.  It wasn't too much luckily.  We turned off for the scenic route hoping that the bridge that appeared to be on there actually was.  The scenic route hugged a pretty lagoon with rolling hills...at this point I was REALLY hoping a bridge or ferry would be present so we didn't have to back track 15 km.

Views on the way out of Danang

Mabel

Hai Van Pass looking north

Rice paddies near the lagoon

Mythical bridge exists!

Me showing off why friends don't let friends not buy full fenders

And then there it was.  The prettiest bridge I've ever seen.  It's amazing how a concrete bridge can be beautiful when it means not retracing your steps!

We stopped at a food stand and the elderly couple running it were really nice.  After a little break off we went again.  Cycling past grand cemeteries.  

This was an epic day but it was really beautiful!

13 to 16 January 2012 - Hue

A teenager stopped and gave us directions to the bus station.   He offered to take us but we didn't want to make him cycle all the way back into town to show the stupid forgienors where the bus station. We said goodbye and then found out he has secretly followed us for over 4 km to make sure we made it to where we were going.  This was so sweet I wanted to get him something but knew it would have been an insult...whoever you are I hope you know how good that made me feel!

As jarring as south Vietnam was for me north Vietnam feels much more my style.  I had heard it wasn't as friendly but that isn't what I've found.    South Vietnam is Minnesota "Nice".  Which means that on the surface it's pleasant but that when you are a stranger it is hard to get anything done or understand the rules that people are playing by.

North Vietnam is much more straight forward.  Coffees are the same price where ever you go (cheaper than the south) and other things have fallen into a regular price as well.  Not to say I'm not being overcharged but I am routinely overcharged the same amount...which somehow reassures me...yes this is delusional thanks for noticing.  Also, people notice if you are in need of help and will stop to try and help you.  It's just easier to know what the rules are.  You sit down you get food.  Most of the time we no longer have to order people just bring us food.

And the food is better.  Or at least we get more variety.  I like pho but after two meals a day it gets old. Up here there are so many choices.  Though truthfully I miss my daily fruit shakes from Ho Chi Minh!  Not tropical here so can get mango but not much else...still good but not as cheap either.

We took a tour of the DMZ area.  It was really interesting and went into the caves where people lived for 3 years.  

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